I want to trade my little Suzuki TS50x for a 125cc 2 stroke trail bike. I'll be using it mainly for road use, but might take it off road for a bit of fun on occasions, So it must be road legal.
Anything above 125cc is out of the question for now because I want a 125 just for mobility whilst I take the full motorbike test whenever I can.
I did consider restoring an Aprilia RS 125 but gave up on that idea. It seems silly to get a big looking bike with a little 125 engine in, as I wouldn't be racing it anyway. Not to mention the expensive oil and maintenance costs needed to keep it in good condition.
Anyway, this potential 125, it will just be used for tiggling around at the weekends really. Would like to be able to ride out with family in the summer, no chance of keeping up with 650 and 1200 bandit at the moment, and it's not so fun having to sit on the back! So as long as it will reach 70mph, it will be fine to tiggle around on =D
I'm looking for something for about 拢700 - 拢900 ish, as that's what I paid for my current bike, and expect to get it back.
I'm not fussed at all about how old it is. My main concern is that it is reliable, and also, It has got to be a 2 smoke!
Also, regarding the height.. Is it just off road trail bikes that have an unbelievably high seat?
I went to the NEC bike show and couldn't even touch one foot on the ground on most of the trail bikes..?!! And they didn't have a side stand..
Any suggestions or feedback is muchly appriciated, many thanks!|||Trail bikes are not street legal cause they have no headlight, tail light, or turn signals. If you want a motorcycle that you can ride on and off the road, then a dual-sport, also called a dual-purpose would be the bike for you. Yes, the seat heights are high on all these bikes so they can go off road. If seat height is going to be an issue, then maybe a small cruiser with a lower seat height would be a better bike for you.
Edit: Sorry, but all the bikes you mentioned, Kawasaki KX125, Suzuki RM125, Honda CR125, Husqvarna CR / WR125, and KTM 125EXC are off road bikes. They do not have the required equipment to be street legal.
Going with the Yamaha DT125R is your best bet.|||Yamaha鈥檚 DT125R is about the best road legal trailie (very popular with thieves though) 鈥?however for you price range reliability at 70 might be a concern, especially at a sustained speed 鈥?I have had two different ones nip up at or around 70 (carrying my non-aerodynamic shape). Rebuilds are, relatively, cheap. RS125s are gorgeous little bikes, especially on bends.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
How do I raise the back of a susuki bandit 400?
Hi, I recently bought a 1995 suzuki bandit 400
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
Why wont my Suzuki Bandit 1200 start?
Purchased a old 97 Bandit a year ago and it ran great, no problems what so ever. Left on a business trip came back and the battery was dead. I jumped it no problem and left again. Long story short its been sitting for a good 6-8 months. When I went to jump it again nothing. I replaced the battery, tried to turn it over and nothing. Checked to make sure the connection to the battery was good and that was fine.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
A good bike for winter riding?
I'm looking to carry on riding through the winter, and possibly snowy days so I have decided to get another bike. (i dont have a car)
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
Motorcycle leaking brownish stuff that smells like gas?
2000 Suzuki Bandit is dripping brownish stuff (oil I assume) that smells like gas after I stop riding. It was dripping off of the engine guard and I couldn't tell where it was coming from. What is wrong with my bike? Approx how much will it cost to get it fixed? Is it ok if I wait until Saturday to take it to the shop?|||When I've had gasoline dripping out of my motorcycles in the past, it's come from these locations:
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
First Bike... Sort of?
Hey I am a 19 year old guy lookin for a first motorcycle. I may have finally convinced my dad to let me get one. I know a decent ammount about bikes but like gettin other opinions. I am also on a pretty tight budget since I am in college. I honestly don't care what kind of bike I get. I definatley want it used, because it needs to be cheap. I am considering sport bikes, cruisers, or naked bikes (spot touring). I am 6' 3" and right around 200 lbs. I have thought hard about a sportster 883, but have been told I would dwarf the bike, and that it has no get up. I want something that will accelerate pretty quick, with a decent top speed. I am not going to be going around poppin wheelies and trying to kill myself like most guys my age, but it is nice to crack the throttle every once and a while. I have also looked at gsxr 750 bandit 1200's sportster 1200s. I really don't care... I just need it cheap, and with decent get-up-and-go. also where should i look, I have been hittin up craigslist?|||Off experience is great, trust me as a 10 years + rider, it will come in handy. Now I gotta break the bad news to you, starting off with something in that list you have there is a good way to move on to the after life. Though I'd never suggest that frickin' Rebel to anyone, especially a 200 pound dude that needs some power to get out of those inevitable lousy situations that will happen, you're best bet is something in the 600's while you're in college. You can always get that dream bike after you get that dream job, but first you gotta gain the road skills to handle it well. Like I said, off road experience is a great start but how many times in those woods or fields were you moving along with say a 40-ton semi heading at you, or perhaps some bozo with one hand on the phone and the other flying around the air? I won't start preaching the I had this and that happen crap, scare you off the road is all that would do; ain't gonna preach helmets and MSF courses cause I'm sure you know where your are on that, but ask yourself where you want to be in 10 years .. moving down the road on your dream bike of than, or perhaps not moving so much no more.
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
What difference will a 33bhp restriction have on my bandit 1200 (1999)?
Hi there,
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
2007 to 2009 Suzuki Bandit 1250S - Cruising on Highway, what RPM Does the engine hold?
I have owned a new Suzuki S40 650cc Big Single Cylinder. Great around town bike for smaller riders. My Problem is I am not a Smaller Rider
***6 Foot tall 290lbs.***
And I enjoy cruising on highways and even Interstates. My S40 is now sitting in the shop waiting for a new Head Gasket that I obliterated trying to keep up with my uncle on the Interstate! Less the 4000 miles!
Here's what I want to know! At what RPM does the new Water Cooled Bandit's hold at 55 65 or 75MPH? Any info would be appriciated. I am already in talks with my dealership for a leftover 08 Bandit 1250S ABS. And I was just curious what the RPM's Would hold for long distance touring?
Thanks.|||I have purchased the same bike that you are looking at. Jump on it because the ones with ABS are rare (In Southern California). In sixth gear your RPMs will be around 3500. Very smooth. I can be in 3rd gear and stay under 5000 all day long. Check out MaximumSuzuki.net(?) or motorcycle-journal.com, bandit section.
You wont believe the gearing ratio on this bike. Great machine.
Good Luck
Chris.|||What gear are you in?|||I have a '98 bandit 1200. It's a 5 gear. At 80mph, in 5th gear,it's about 5000 rpm. Rpm s will be lower if the newer ones have 6 gears.
***6 Foot tall 290lbs.***
And I enjoy cruising on highways and even Interstates. My S40 is now sitting in the shop waiting for a new Head Gasket that I obliterated trying to keep up with my uncle on the Interstate! Less the 4000 miles!
Here's what I want to know! At what RPM does the new Water Cooled Bandit's hold at 55 65 or 75MPH? Any info would be appriciated. I am already in talks with my dealership for a leftover 08 Bandit 1250S ABS. And I was just curious what the RPM's Would hold for long distance touring?
Thanks.|||I have purchased the same bike that you are looking at. Jump on it because the ones with ABS are rare (In Southern California). In sixth gear your RPMs will be around 3500. Very smooth. I can be in 3rd gear and stay under 5000 all day long. Check out MaximumSuzuki.net(?) or motorcycle-journal.com, bandit section.
You wont believe the gearing ratio on this bike. Great machine.
Good Luck
Chris.|||What gear are you in?|||I have a '98 bandit 1200. It's a 5 gear. At 80mph, in 5th gear,it's about 5000 rpm. Rpm s will be lower if the newer ones have 6 gears.
My Bandit and its exhaust.?
Right, long story short, I have just got a new Motorcycle, A Suzuki Bandit 600! The fella I purchased this Motorcycle from has a very Lovely sounding Scorpion exhaust. It is road legal and has had 3 MOTs with the exhaust attached. My friend today told me I have to 'declare' this to my insurer, as a possible result they could not insure me or charge me a bomb more!
I'm 18, 2 years no claims the bike is restricted to 33BHP due to the license I hold.
All i'm asking is someone to just make this clearer for me, do I declare? what will happen if i do and don't? and any other helpful information with this.
I don't want to be doing anything I should not be, even if the cost may rise. Better to be safe.
Thanks guys!!
Geoff|||Well, I'm pretty sure your insurer is not reading this question, so I'm not really sure why you're asking us and not them. In fact, it seems like you've already answered your own question when you say "I don't want to be doing anything I should not be".
But community guidelines say I have to make an honest attempt to answer your question, which is "do I declare?", so my answer is, "Yes, honesty is the best policy. Better safe than crying".
I'm 18, 2 years no claims the bike is restricted to 33BHP due to the license I hold.
All i'm asking is someone to just make this clearer for me, do I declare? what will happen if i do and don't? and any other helpful information with this.
I don't want to be doing anything I should not be, even if the cost may rise. Better to be safe.
Thanks guys!!
Geoff|||Well, I'm pretty sure your insurer is not reading this question, so I'm not really sure why you're asking us and not them. In fact, it seems like you've already answered your own question when you say "I don't want to be doing anything I should not be".
But community guidelines say I have to make an honest attempt to answer your question, which is "do I declare?", so my answer is, "Yes, honesty is the best policy. Better safe than crying".
600 bandit need help asap oil leak?
i have a hole in the oil cooler on my 600 suzuki bandit just wondered how to blank it off as its to much money for a new one. will it cause any harm to the bike? im short of funds need help asap many thanks|||STOP.
This engine is specifically designed with oil spray cooling to the underside of the pistons. it is a unique design feature of this series of engines. You cannot run this engine for anything more than a few minutes without an oil cooler without doing permanent damage.
also the engine runs on a pressurised system and the loss of oil would be sufficient to compromise the engine too, so please don't even consider trying to run with the lines blanked off. not even to test the engine.its is a pumped system SACS...
the aftermarket mocal unit is comparable but surely if you can't afford to repair the bike what sort of condition is the rest of the bike in.. if you can't afford to repair it get the pushbike out and save your cash and save your engine.. also order a rad screen as well while you are at it, a nice stainless steel one, not because it looks nice but as it is low maintainance.. I've got to say that it must have been one hell of a stone to damage the rad.|||This engine is mainly oil cooled, so the cooler must not be blanked off or removed as all of the engine luubricating oil flows through it at all times.
Do not try and plug it as you will never get a good seal with an oily surface.
I know a genuine cooler is around £70, but how much is a replacement engine?|||oh no no better invest on this one rather than letting it as it is and later you get a massive wreck and loadz of money to spend on it... where is that leak? where you grip to open the cap? or is it the rubber band? i dunno but 'ive had such problems and i learned my lessons.. remember is a 600 I-4...not a 100cc...massive heat, oil heating, pushing more its way out... never know what may happen..so be responsible...if you don't have money, don't ride it... anything to do with engine must be treated asap.. this will add up and cause even bigger problem if not repaired...|||DON'T plug the lines!
Oil flows through for a reason. It goes somewhere after the cooler.
For temporary only, splice the lines together to bypass the cooler.
Not having a cooler on anything designed with one will cause problems.
This may get you home, the other way will trash your ride.|||This engine relies on oil cooling. If you plug the lines you could cause the engine to overheat and seize up. Phone around the breakers or look on ebay for S/H one. They are very common bike, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one cheap. It will cost you a lot more if blow the engine.|||There is a cooler for a reason.If Suzuki could get away without using it they would have.I am assuming your cooler is made of aluminum.Doesn't really matter.There are good apoxies on the market that will seal this hole.Good Luck.|||JB Weld. Oops, I didn't just type that did I? Screw it, If its a small hole or tiny little crack I would just spackle a little JB Weld over it. Not like your going to hurt it any further. Just try to get it replaced ASAP. |||You can buy a brand new 10 row mocal for £40 to fit this bike mate. Look further into it before buying a second hand one.|||Get a used one from the cycle salvage yard.|||take the oil cooler off and plug the lines
you don't need it|||it really depends on where is holed...it could be alloy welded,or filled/sealed....but keep an eye on it.
This engine is specifically designed with oil spray cooling to the underside of the pistons. it is a unique design feature of this series of engines. You cannot run this engine for anything more than a few minutes without an oil cooler without doing permanent damage.
also the engine runs on a pressurised system and the loss of oil would be sufficient to compromise the engine too, so please don't even consider trying to run with the lines blanked off. not even to test the engine.its is a pumped system SACS...
the aftermarket mocal unit is comparable but surely if you can't afford to repair the bike what sort of condition is the rest of the bike in.. if you can't afford to repair it get the pushbike out and save your cash and save your engine.. also order a rad screen as well while you are at it, a nice stainless steel one, not because it looks nice but as it is low maintainance.. I've got to say that it must have been one hell of a stone to damage the rad.|||This engine is mainly oil cooled, so the cooler must not be blanked off or removed as all of the engine luubricating oil flows through it at all times.
Do not try and plug it as you will never get a good seal with an oily surface.
I know a genuine cooler is around £70, but how much is a replacement engine?|||oh no no better invest on this one rather than letting it as it is and later you get a massive wreck and loadz of money to spend on it... where is that leak? where you grip to open the cap? or is it the rubber band? i dunno but 'ive had such problems and i learned my lessons.. remember is a 600 I-4...not a 100cc...massive heat, oil heating, pushing more its way out... never know what may happen..so be responsible...if you don't have money, don't ride it... anything to do with engine must be treated asap.. this will add up and cause even bigger problem if not repaired...|||DON'T plug the lines!
Oil flows through for a reason. It goes somewhere after the cooler.
For temporary only, splice the lines together to bypass the cooler.
Not having a cooler on anything designed with one will cause problems.
This may get you home, the other way will trash your ride.|||This engine relies on oil cooling. If you plug the lines you could cause the engine to overheat and seize up. Phone around the breakers or look on ebay for S/H one. They are very common bike, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one cheap. It will cost you a lot more if blow the engine.|||There is a cooler for a reason.If Suzuki could get away without using it they would have.I am assuming your cooler is made of aluminum.Doesn't really matter.There are good apoxies on the market that will seal this hole.Good Luck.|||JB Weld. Oops, I didn't just type that did I? Screw it, If its a small hole or tiny little crack I would just spackle a little JB Weld over it. Not like your going to hurt it any further. Just try to get it replaced ASAP. |||You can buy a brand new 10 row mocal for £40 to fit this bike mate. Look further into it before buying a second hand one.|||Get a used one from the cycle salvage yard.|||take the oil cooler off and plug the lines
you don't need it|||it really depends on where is holed...it could be alloy welded,or filled/sealed....but keep an eye on it.
I have a 2000 suzuki bandit 600s. It stalls out all the time and lacks power from time to time.?
I bought this 2000 suzuki bandit from a private seller. The ad description said that it had been fully synced and the carbs were recently cleaned.. It was alse suposedly looked at by a well known shop. The owner also said that this bike had been sitting for about 3 and a half years. This bike only has 4000 miles and it ran great for the first month.. now it only stays on when tha choke is on, and the knob that regulates the idle doesnt do anything when turned. What could be the problem?|||Probably has a clogged passagway in the carbs or an airleak into the carbs, (it runs WITH THE CHOKE, right) Probably he spent a bunch of money on the carbs and didn't clean the fuel sytem, or the previous mechanic was inept.
So, try this, pt about a gallon of fresh gas into your tank. Go to the Autoparts store, buy 2 cans of sea foam, open the first one up and pour it into the tank. Ride it back home, let it sit, and soak your carbs, then ride it around the block fiully warmed up, and if it's not right, park it again, over night, repeat as necessary.
IT should clean the tank and carbs sparkling clean, in a couple of days, IF the problem was it sat with bad gas. If the Problem was actually rust/debris in the jets this will not clean it up. If so, and its not clean by day four, Give UP and take it to the dealer, and have their man tear into the carbs. If it DOES work, it will be remarkable how well it runs and how well it saves you a great sum of money.
The second can? I imagine I hear you say.
Treat your own gas, fill the tank up and pour an ounce or two of Sea Foam into the tank, and you can park it for a year with no repercussions.
Or just pour the second can in...
If the sea foam does a good job a year is all a fuel stabilizer is good for, it may not make it any better with twice as much, but it MIGHT.
and you have a full can, anyway...|||Probably, the carbs are scaled up with plaque from sitting plus a tune up. You will have to remover the carbs and take then in for a proper cleaning (including disassemble). Plus its ready for a tune up. The bike sounds worth it though.
So, try this, pt about a gallon of fresh gas into your tank. Go to the Autoparts store, buy 2 cans of sea foam, open the first one up and pour it into the tank. Ride it back home, let it sit, and soak your carbs, then ride it around the block fiully warmed up, and if it's not right, park it again, over night, repeat as necessary.
IT should clean the tank and carbs sparkling clean, in a couple of days, IF the problem was it sat with bad gas. If the Problem was actually rust/debris in the jets this will not clean it up. If so, and its not clean by day four, Give UP and take it to the dealer, and have their man tear into the carbs. If it DOES work, it will be remarkable how well it runs and how well it saves you a great sum of money.
The second can? I imagine I hear you say.
Treat your own gas, fill the tank up and pour an ounce or two of Sea Foam into the tank, and you can park it for a year with no repercussions.
Or just pour the second can in...
If the sea foam does a good job a year is all a fuel stabilizer is good for, it may not make it any better with twice as much, but it MIGHT.
and you have a full can, anyway...|||Probably, the carbs are scaled up with plaque from sitting plus a tune up. You will have to remover the carbs and take then in for a proper cleaning (including disassemble). Plus its ready for a tune up. The bike sounds worth it though.
SUzuki Bandit 600 Smoking at high revs?
Hi,
I have a 2000 model bandit 600 that is smoking when i ride it up the road quite a bit!
Firstly last winter i left the fuel tap to the 'prime' position which flooded the carbs and air filter eventually circulating through the gearbox after i had figured this out i cleaned it all and replaced the oil/filter and air filter as well as removed the carbs and cleaned them.
It now runs better but when i took it down the road for a test run it smoked out the road behind me and also the clutch was slipping at high revs.
The bike doesn't smoke on start up so i am wondering where this smoke is coming from and if it is likely to dissappear if i ride it further - when i noticed it smoking after about 500 yds i turned around and went home.
Cheers|||There are allot of places for gas fumes to accumulate in a dual over head cam design. I suspect you have still got gas in your oil.
You could simply ride it, the gas will eventually be absorbed by the oil and / or tossed out the PVC into the filter and be burned.
But this is not ideal.
Ideally, you will strip the motor, blueprint it, and put it back together again.
But at least you'll change the oil and treat it with an additive resistant to gas wash out, after a short warm up ride (treat it twice once now once after), so-as not to wash the oil out of your valve guides and ruin your top end. Then you will repeat this, and again, as long as it smokes.
~ Or ~ you will wring the filter out better and carefully reassemble if you have a foam air filter and you over lubed it and the engine is thus sucking in oil at high RPMs because it's drawing more air and this is causing the smoke.|||check the engine oil and the transmission oil after riding and see if it smells like gas still. Change it if there is even a whiff of gas. so far what I think as far as the smoke is that the gas washed down everything and your rings have not seated in yet with the fresh oil. Driving the bike will help seat the rings. I dont know what is up with the clutch, Skip the high revs for now and just take a liesurely cruise and see how the bike runs after breaking in the oil. Im hoping you are using recommended oil for your motorcycle and not a synthetic brand (unless recommended.|||What color is the smoke? Blue? Black? Does it linger?
I have a 2000 model bandit 600 that is smoking when i ride it up the road quite a bit!
Firstly last winter i left the fuel tap to the 'prime' position which flooded the carbs and air filter eventually circulating through the gearbox after i had figured this out i cleaned it all and replaced the oil/filter and air filter as well as removed the carbs and cleaned them.
It now runs better but when i took it down the road for a test run it smoked out the road behind me and also the clutch was slipping at high revs.
The bike doesn't smoke on start up so i am wondering where this smoke is coming from and if it is likely to dissappear if i ride it further - when i noticed it smoking after about 500 yds i turned around and went home.
Cheers|||There are allot of places for gas fumes to accumulate in a dual over head cam design. I suspect you have still got gas in your oil.
You could simply ride it, the gas will eventually be absorbed by the oil and / or tossed out the PVC into the filter and be burned.
But this is not ideal.
Ideally, you will strip the motor, blueprint it, and put it back together again.
But at least you'll change the oil and treat it with an additive resistant to gas wash out, after a short warm up ride (treat it twice once now once after), so-as not to wash the oil out of your valve guides and ruin your top end. Then you will repeat this, and again, as long as it smokes.
~ Or ~ you will wring the filter out better and carefully reassemble if you have a foam air filter and you over lubed it and the engine is thus sucking in oil at high RPMs because it's drawing more air and this is causing the smoke.|||check the engine oil and the transmission oil after riding and see if it smells like gas still. Change it if there is even a whiff of gas. so far what I think as far as the smoke is that the gas washed down everything and your rings have not seated in yet with the fresh oil. Driving the bike will help seat the rings. I dont know what is up with the clutch, Skip the high revs for now and just take a liesurely cruise and see how the bike runs after breaking in the oil. Im hoping you are using recommended oil for your motorcycle and not a synthetic brand (unless recommended.|||What color is the smoke? Blue? Black? Does it linger?
Advice on first time bike buying?
Ive been surfing all over the net doing research on buying my first bike and at first I was dead set on 125cc-250cc range but since having seen them and having a spin on a 200cc I'm very sure the 400cc class is for me, its got power to do some nice speed but is still nicely below the powerhouses of 600cc. Since I'm a student I have a some what limited budget and have looked at the Suzuki Bandit GSF400 and the Honda CB400. The Bandit as far as I can tell isn't being made in 400cc anymore and hasn't been for a long while hence all the deals I can find are 90's versions of the bike but fortunately this means they are quite cheap to buy. The Honda from what Ive seen is still being manufactured to this day but the new ones are way way out of my budget so maybe an early 2000's model would be best. My question is, is buying a potentially 13-17 year old bike a good idea mechanically? Are there any people who can vouch for the two mentioned models of bike? And if there are, can you tell me of any other bikes that have that same general look, the naked frame etc, that will be affordable and all in all a good choice? Any other first time buying advice would be greatly appreciated.|||You're very clearly not in the USA... might want to mention which country to gather more answers from people in your own country (on other models).
But, I have experience with both a '91 Bandit 400 (GSF) and an '89 Honda CB400f (CB-1). The Bandit has some funky weirdness when it comes to the carbs, tons of little plugs and o-rings that wear out over time and tend to need to be replaced before the bike will run well. Those cost me ~$80 for the parts and I did the work myself. They will also kill the CDI unit... no definitive reason as to why, but my educated guess is that it's due to older batteries and sub-par charging systems.
The Honda's you're looking at are more than likely Vastly different from the models we have in the US. They made more HP, were more robust and ironically they are more rare.
Both were bulletproof when it came to the engines and highly capable sporting machines. If you're looking for that kind of package, perhaps you have access to the Ducati Monster 400? I really don't know what other naked 400 bikes are out there as they vanished from the US in 1991.
Good luck.|||My bike is from '98 and still in good technical shape. Street bikes are only having problems with engines mileage. There can be little corrosion here and there but nothing serious.
I own Honda and I can tell it's very reliable.|||target.walmart.|||go talk to a few motorcycle shops about reliability, repair costs and availability of parts.
But, I have experience with both a '91 Bandit 400 (GSF) and an '89 Honda CB400f (CB-1). The Bandit has some funky weirdness when it comes to the carbs, tons of little plugs and o-rings that wear out over time and tend to need to be replaced before the bike will run well. Those cost me ~$80 for the parts and I did the work myself. They will also kill the CDI unit... no definitive reason as to why, but my educated guess is that it's due to older batteries and sub-par charging systems.
The Honda's you're looking at are more than likely Vastly different from the models we have in the US. They made more HP, were more robust and ironically they are more rare.
Both were bulletproof when it came to the engines and highly capable sporting machines. If you're looking for that kind of package, perhaps you have access to the Ducati Monster 400? I really don't know what other naked 400 bikes are out there as they vanished from the US in 1991.
Good luck.|||My bike is from '98 and still in good technical shape. Street bikes are only having problems with engines mileage. There can be little corrosion here and there but nothing serious.
I own Honda and I can tell it's very reliable.|||target.walmart.|||go talk to a few motorcycle shops about reliability, repair costs and availability of parts.
My 99' Suzuki Bandit 600 will not start!!!?
Hi All,
my Bandit 600 has been giving me problems,first the cold weather killed the battery,I charged it up and put it back on,the bike tried to turn over but couldn't and eventually killed the battery. I recharged it and checked the plugs, put it back on and tried again. After about 10 seconds there was a click and then it just clicked only. I then connected the bike to my car,and with it running tried again, it tried to start up again so Im guessing that the battery is knackered,anyway,I kept on trying and it almost fired up but then it clicked out again!
Now it only clicks,I pulled off the cover of the starter motor cable and the lead was really hot. Is my starter motor broken? Hope someone can help me!! Thank you!|||Hi,
I would say that your bike battery is dead,
your cable and electrics will get hot jumping your bike of your car as it will be a different amperage supply to your bike and the starter will get hot and constant winding or repeated starting will get the cables hot too.
if your battery has a dead cell it may affect the voltage during the jump starting of your bike even with it connected to your car.
It is hard to condemn your starter motor but when you jumped it did it turn over as quick as it usually does.
with the jump connected did it fire up and run or was it still a non starter.
sometimes with with a dead batt it will affect the start coz all the power is being drain for that and the ecu and ignition gets a lower voltage delivery.
I would check all the connection from the battery to the starter and the ignition side as well as the switched side of the starter control.
Perhaps even remove the starter from the bike and see if connected to a good battery it will spin free and fast without any load,
try jump starting it without the old bike battery connected to see if it is dead and affects the voltage.
If your road has no snow, which isn't very likely try and bump the bike as this will allow all the voltage generated by the alternator to be used by the ignition only and not trying to power the starter motor.
Let us know how you get on.|||Hey, im having similar trouble as you at the moment (i have a bandit 600 too) What colour is your spark? Im getting an orange coloured spark and i think my battery is dying quick aswell. I think your starter motor will be fine, ive tried my for ages to get started but no joy :(|||You need a new battery, you should never run your starter longer than a few seconds at a time if it dosent start then something is wrong.|||You are trying to hard just buy a new battery! The longer you crank the hotter the wiring will get.|||Your battery is toast.|||try throwing it in a pond or off a cliff, OR in a scrapyard
my Bandit 600 has been giving me problems,first the cold weather killed the battery,I charged it up and put it back on,the bike tried to turn over but couldn't and eventually killed the battery. I recharged it and checked the plugs, put it back on and tried again. After about 10 seconds there was a click and then it just clicked only. I then connected the bike to my car,and with it running tried again, it tried to start up again so Im guessing that the battery is knackered,anyway,I kept on trying and it almost fired up but then it clicked out again!
Now it only clicks,I pulled off the cover of the starter motor cable and the lead was really hot. Is my starter motor broken? Hope someone can help me!! Thank you!|||Hi,
I would say that your bike battery is dead,
your cable and electrics will get hot jumping your bike of your car as it will be a different amperage supply to your bike and the starter will get hot and constant winding or repeated starting will get the cables hot too.
if your battery has a dead cell it may affect the voltage during the jump starting of your bike even with it connected to your car.
It is hard to condemn your starter motor but when you jumped it did it turn over as quick as it usually does.
with the jump connected did it fire up and run or was it still a non starter.
sometimes with with a dead batt it will affect the start coz all the power is being drain for that and the ecu and ignition gets a lower voltage delivery.
I would check all the connection from the battery to the starter and the ignition side as well as the switched side of the starter control.
Perhaps even remove the starter from the bike and see if connected to a good battery it will spin free and fast without any load,
try jump starting it without the old bike battery connected to see if it is dead and affects the voltage.
If your road has no snow, which isn't very likely try and bump the bike as this will allow all the voltage generated by the alternator to be used by the ignition only and not trying to power the starter motor.
Let us know how you get on.|||Hey, im having similar trouble as you at the moment (i have a bandit 600 too) What colour is your spark? Im getting an orange coloured spark and i think my battery is dying quick aswell. I think your starter motor will be fine, ive tried my for ages to get started but no joy :(|||You need a new battery, you should never run your starter longer than a few seconds at a time if it dosent start then something is wrong.|||You are trying to hard just buy a new battery! The longer you crank the hotter the wiring will get.|||Your battery is toast.|||try throwing it in a pond or off a cliff, OR in a scrapyard
Bandit 400 help electrical questions?
so i just picked up this bandit 400 for my girlfriend and its having an electrical problem, with the battery sitting on the bench by it self it has a good charge, then when i put the leads from the bike on the charge drops to almost nothing on the dc10 setting, when i turn the ignition key to off most of the charge is restored, minus about 15% of the original charge. any ideas, could it be just a random short in a ground or could it be the ignition switch , could the ignition switch be telling the solioid to fire. help please!!!!
thanks
Richard|||Take the battery to be tested for a dead cell, that can easily explain all your symptoms. Most places do it free. There is no point in going further until you do that first.
Bear in mind that your voltmeter only reflects the voltage, not the charge, or the internal condition of the battery.
thanks
Richard|||Take the battery to be tested for a dead cell, that can easily explain all your symptoms. Most places do it free. There is no point in going further until you do that first.
Bear in mind that your voltmeter only reflects the voltage, not the charge, or the internal condition of the battery.
Would you buy a new Suzuki knowing this?
My brother and I bought 2 new bikes for a summer vacation. His 1200 Bandit leaked gas and ruined the motor before it got 2000 miles. We asked Suzuki to replace the motor so we could go on vacation. They said it鈥檚 to expensive and would cost $3000. After 4 months and the vacation gone they got the motor rebuilt at a their cost of $3700. The dealer wanted to replace the motor but Suzuki squashed that. The gas stained cases and burnt exhaust pipes were not replaced. The bike got nicked and scratched all over from being apart for so long. The rep rode it and looked at it, then said it鈥?good as new. It ran like crap and looked worse. We called Japan for nothing, and even wrote the US CEO all for nothing. We spent $15,000 for the bikes to get Fd. We spent our vacation hassling with Suzuki, and not one person there gave a F! Beware Suzuki鈥檚 warranty is not worth the paper it鈥檚 printed on! Buy one of their lemons and get Fd like we did!|||AMEN brother! They only have to carry you a year on warranty and come up with all sort of b.s. excuses that you did it, not the manufacturer.|||Get a life and move on..u will feel a lot better for it..
|||This is the second time I've seen this exact same rant posted on Yahoo Answers. I've already explained to you that the manufacturer DID NOT screw up your bike... YOUR LOCAL DEALER DID! If your local dealer's mechanic was reasonably competent, you wouldn't have any of the problems you are whining about.
Suzuki of America DID honor their warranty by authorizing your local dealer to rebuild or repair your motor. The fact is that the local dealer's mechanic messed up the job, NOT SUZUKI OF AMERICA.
If you wanted satisfaction, you could have taken the local dealer to court, but since you've already sold the bikes, you can't even do that now, so piss off and stop whining!|||WE REALLY GOT THE PICTURE...this is the 20th time you posted this?????|||I've owned mnay bike sover the years, the last one being a new Suzuki 400. My dealer was great, and promptly fixed a small oil leak that my bike came with. Overall, I htink your experience is not common, though obviously it was a bad one.
I prefer Hondas.|||Screw you, i will continue to race and ride Suzuki's due to their factory sponsorship and racing pedigree. You cant even begin to understand how wrong you are about service and support for one of the finest manufacturers out there.|||Neither mine nor my brother's Suzuki ever had any kind of problem.|||I agree with everyone else... Enough already.
I've worked with Suzuki in the past and found their warranties are as good as anyone else's, and in my situations they have covered things that were obviously due to bonehead owners and not manufacturing issues, which is after all, the only thing that any warranty from any manufacturer on any product covers.
Not once have I ever seen any manufacturer throw a new engine, or machine at any problem. They always fix the original machine using as many of the original parts as possible. Your issue with scratching is between you and whoever repaired it, not the factory. Your issue with the gas staining is between you and whoever allowed the gas to freely flow there and sit long enough to stain, not the factory.
If you honestly think that you were wronged then get a lawyer and take Suzuki to court. But going by just what you have written I'd be sure I had the attorney fees covered before I went to court.|||I'll have to agree with most of the rest of the responders to this question...I have a Suzuki, and I put 10 to 15k a year on it, and no problems. While it does have a different engine than yours, I've never had any problems dealing with Suzuki...sorry to hear of the bad experience.|||I still think you did something wrong as there were no problems for almost 2,000 miles. You ran it on prime position and filled crankcase with gas which trashed motor. I dont work for Suzuki but I have worked on them in the past (1981to 1989)and know this can be a problem when people forget to switch back to reserve or normal ON poition then leave bike sitting for couple of days/weeks (it doesnt happen overnight)
If your going to keep telling this story, at least tell the ENTIRE story, if its something YOU did they didnt have to do any warranty work at all. I dont think any other of the hundreds of thousands of GSX-R/GSX-F or GSF motors made in last 21 yrs have had the same problem or it would be much better known. Suzuki have used the same type of fuel tap since at least 1977 on the GS750
Basically, I like everyone else am tired of hearing the same half of a tale
Report Abuse
|||This is the second time I've seen this exact same rant posted on Yahoo Answers. I've already explained to you that the manufacturer DID NOT screw up your bike... YOUR LOCAL DEALER DID! If your local dealer's mechanic was reasonably competent, you wouldn't have any of the problems you are whining about.
Suzuki of America DID honor their warranty by authorizing your local dealer to rebuild or repair your motor. The fact is that the local dealer's mechanic messed up the job, NOT SUZUKI OF AMERICA.
If you wanted satisfaction, you could have taken the local dealer to court, but since you've already sold the bikes, you can't even do that now, so piss off and stop whining!|||WE REALLY GOT THE PICTURE...this is the 20th time you posted this?????|||I've owned mnay bike sover the years, the last one being a new Suzuki 400. My dealer was great, and promptly fixed a small oil leak that my bike came with. Overall, I htink your experience is not common, though obviously it was a bad one.
I prefer Hondas.|||Screw you, i will continue to race and ride Suzuki's due to their factory sponsorship and racing pedigree. You cant even begin to understand how wrong you are about service and support for one of the finest manufacturers out there.|||Neither mine nor my brother's Suzuki ever had any kind of problem.|||I agree with everyone else... Enough already.
I've worked with Suzuki in the past and found their warranties are as good as anyone else's, and in my situations they have covered things that were obviously due to bonehead owners and not manufacturing issues, which is after all, the only thing that any warranty from any manufacturer on any product covers.
Not once have I ever seen any manufacturer throw a new engine, or machine at any problem. They always fix the original machine using as many of the original parts as possible. Your issue with scratching is between you and whoever repaired it, not the factory. Your issue with the gas staining is between you and whoever allowed the gas to freely flow there and sit long enough to stain, not the factory.
If you honestly think that you were wronged then get a lawyer and take Suzuki to court. But going by just what you have written I'd be sure I had the attorney fees covered before I went to court.|||I'll have to agree with most of the rest of the responders to this question...I have a Suzuki, and I put 10 to 15k a year on it, and no problems. While it does have a different engine than yours, I've never had any problems dealing with Suzuki...sorry to hear of the bad experience.|||I still think you did something wrong as there were no problems for almost 2,000 miles. You ran it on prime position and filled crankcase with gas which trashed motor. I dont work for Suzuki but I have worked on them in the past (1981to 1989)and know this can be a problem when people forget to switch back to reserve or normal ON poition then leave bike sitting for couple of days/weeks (it doesnt happen overnight)
If your going to keep telling this story, at least tell the ENTIRE story, if its something YOU did they didnt have to do any warranty work at all. I dont think any other of the hundreds of thousands of GSX-R/GSX-F or GSF motors made in last 21 yrs have had the same problem or it would be much better known. Suzuki have used the same type of fuel tap since at least 1977 on the GS750
Basically, I like everyone else am tired of hearing the same half of a tale
Bandit 600 wont start without choke and backfires when started, any ideas?
Just bought bandit 600 from someone who had it left for 1 year and now i have put fresh petrol in and it wont start without choke even when hot, occasionaly backfires and will not do more than 70mph, all sparks work and have cleaned out all main jets but one spark plug seems a lot blacker than all rest and sounds like its only running on 3 cylinders. throttle is not responsive, either on or off, contantly stalls at junctions, surely if it the idle jet blocked then it would still run well when you open it up but this is not the case, please help as this is my first big bike and not going well so far.|||The carb is gummed up and the jets are clogged from sitting so long. No help for it but taking the carb apart and cleaning it.|||take the carbs apart %26amp; clean them . next year put Sea Foam in the gas %26amp; run it for 10 min . it will start in the spring %26amp; run great
My K8 Bandit 1250SA "pops" a lot since I fitted an aftermarket end can?
I bought my Bandit new in 2008 and liked everything about it except for the dustbin on the back Suzuki calls an end can. I purchased a twin outlet aftermarket end can from Bandit Mania which looks and sounds very nice. The problem is that as I roll off the throttle when slowing down for junctions and lights I get a lot of popping from the new can. Is this a problem that needs to be sorted or can I just ignore it. I don't want to cause any long term damage to my bike.|||You changed the amount of back pressure ,by going to free flowing exhaust-now you must re jet it to make it not pop anymore.Yup you should get that fixed as this can lead to burned out valves.That's the problem with changing cans,it is not as simple as the exhaust makers tell you it is,funny how they never mentioned a backfire when you bought it....The best sound does not always go hand in hand with the best performance.|||That dustbin you threw out was jetted for the bike. The new one isn't.
Pilot jet too lean. Probably worth the $50 to do a Dyno run to figure out where you are.
Pilot jet too lean. Probably worth the $50 to do a Dyno run to figure out where you are.
Suzuki bandit 1200 motorbike coughs when engine is cold. what could be causing it?
my suzuki gsf1200 bandit '02 motorbike has a problem where when revved at standstill between 1100rpm(idle) and 2000rpm it 'coughs' back into the carbs when the engine is cold and mildly warm. Only when it is fully warmed up will it rev without this 'coughing' back on itself.
I checked the carb balance this evening by attaching my morgan vacuum gauges and the carbs were only slightly out of balance, which i've now adjusted. But what i did notice is it coughs on all 4 cylinders, and randomly, when it coughs the gauge suddenly drops then returns to where it was.
Its done 10,000miles now, i've just bought the bike, and i know the valve clearances need checking/adjusting at 7,500miles so that is next on my list of things to do.
The bike had stood for a year before i bought it, but just these last few days i've done 200miles and it still does it. I have been told maybe the carbs are in need of a clean due to the fuel going off causing a residue to be left which affects the running.
Any help is appreciated.|||I know it's the expensive option (which therefore may not be an option) but take it to a Suzuki dealer for a full service - you've only just got the bike, you don't know it too well at the moment and it might be an easy fix for the service techs at a dealership.
It's what I'd do, anyway. Just get the whole bike checked out by those who know them. Then consider servicing it yourself from that point on.|||It turns out it is indeed because the mixture is lean. Because it's an old engine design they lean the mixture more and more to get it through the strict emission tests. I have done a huge amount of investigating and raising the main jet needle by 1mm has almost cured it. Can be done in situ.
|||I checked and adjusted the valve clearances, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, genuine air filter, have removed the carbs 7 times in total, thoroughly cleaned and float height set correct. Jets cleared out. Carbs balanced. Still did it. The answer was to raise the needle to richen up the mixture
|||Try replacing the spark plugs?
Good luck with adjusting the valve clearance of the Bandit. It is not for amateurs. Your will need special tools and tons of patience. If you plan to do it, get a repair or service manual.
Check the valve clearance for now, if not too much out of specs, let it be. Enjoy your bike first.|||Uh, the engine is cold and combustion is not as effective as it will be when it warms up. Let it warm up before revving it. Its not good to rev a cold engine.|||Mark is correct. usually means a lean condition, more choke, and let warm up some
before riding or ride easier till it warms up.|||Install new spark plugs and air filter.|||I'd bet money that if you can find the pilot jet screws on the sides of the carbs and richened the idle mix up a bit, that would stop the lean running carb backfire. The screws may be hidden under sealed tamper-proof plugs, although that doesn't mean they can't be removed. Neither can I tell you which way to turn the screws because while the screws on most control fuel, on a few they control air (like my '79 Kaw). See if you can find a yahoo owners group for your bike and ask someone who knows.
While it never hurts to tune a bike up and clean the filters, etc, a dirty air filter would only effect high speed running, bad plugs would either cause very hard starting or misfire under heavy load although at 10k miles, I'd go ahead and replace them and too tight valves needing adjustment will cause hard starting and sudden dying until thoroughly warmed up.|||This sound is old oil or wrong spark.or wrong oil.it can be electrice problem.so
1-change or clean air filter
2-change or clean the spark and make sur is correct one
3-change the oil engine and oil filter
4-check the battery.
I checked the carb balance this evening by attaching my morgan vacuum gauges and the carbs were only slightly out of balance, which i've now adjusted. But what i did notice is it coughs on all 4 cylinders, and randomly, when it coughs the gauge suddenly drops then returns to where it was.
Its done 10,000miles now, i've just bought the bike, and i know the valve clearances need checking/adjusting at 7,500miles so that is next on my list of things to do.
The bike had stood for a year before i bought it, but just these last few days i've done 200miles and it still does it. I have been told maybe the carbs are in need of a clean due to the fuel going off causing a residue to be left which affects the running.
Any help is appreciated.|||I know it's the expensive option (which therefore may not be an option) but take it to a Suzuki dealer for a full service - you've only just got the bike, you don't know it too well at the moment and it might be an easy fix for the service techs at a dealership.
It's what I'd do, anyway. Just get the whole bike checked out by those who know them. Then consider servicing it yourself from that point on.|||It turns out it is indeed because the mixture is lean. Because it's an old engine design they lean the mixture more and more to get it through the strict emission tests. I have done a huge amount of investigating and raising the main jet needle by 1mm has almost cured it. Can be done in situ.
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|||I checked and adjusted the valve clearances, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, genuine air filter, have removed the carbs 7 times in total, thoroughly cleaned and float height set correct. Jets cleared out. Carbs balanced. Still did it. The answer was to raise the needle to richen up the mixture
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|||Try replacing the spark plugs?
Good luck with adjusting the valve clearance of the Bandit. It is not for amateurs. Your will need special tools and tons of patience. If you plan to do it, get a repair or service manual.
Check the valve clearance for now, if not too much out of specs, let it be. Enjoy your bike first.|||Uh, the engine is cold and combustion is not as effective as it will be when it warms up. Let it warm up before revving it. Its not good to rev a cold engine.|||Mark is correct. usually means a lean condition, more choke, and let warm up some
before riding or ride easier till it warms up.|||Install new spark plugs and air filter.|||I'd bet money that if you can find the pilot jet screws on the sides of the carbs and richened the idle mix up a bit, that would stop the lean running carb backfire. The screws may be hidden under sealed tamper-proof plugs, although that doesn't mean they can't be removed. Neither can I tell you which way to turn the screws because while the screws on most control fuel, on a few they control air (like my '79 Kaw). See if you can find a yahoo owners group for your bike and ask someone who knows.
While it never hurts to tune a bike up and clean the filters, etc, a dirty air filter would only effect high speed running, bad plugs would either cause very hard starting or misfire under heavy load although at 10k miles, I'd go ahead and replace them and too tight valves needing adjustment will cause hard starting and sudden dying until thoroughly warmed up.|||This sound is old oil or wrong spark.or wrong oil.it can be electrice problem.so
1-change or clean air filter
2-change or clean the spark and make sur is correct one
3-change the oil engine and oil filter
4-check the battery.
Bandit 600N carburetor clean?
I need to clean my Carb on the bandit. I found a website with pictures included - step by step guide. How ever I cant find the page now.
Anyone else done the carb cleaning on a Bandit?
I just need step by step guide. My garage is booked up for weeks. Plus, this is kinda an old bike for me so I dont mind playing around on it.
Any advice that could point me into the right direction?|||every-thing's OK ,except, do not leave it overnight.may chew the body of the crbtr.
Anyone else done the carb cleaning on a Bandit?
I just need step by step guide. My garage is booked up for weeks. Plus, this is kinda an old bike for me so I dont mind playing around on it.
Any advice that could point me into the right direction?|||every-thing's OK ,except, do not leave it overnight.may chew the body of the crbtr.
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