I want to trade my little Suzuki TS50x for a 125cc 2 stroke trail bike. I'll be using it mainly for road use, but might take it off road for a bit of fun on occasions, So it must be road legal.
Anything above 125cc is out of the question for now because I want a 125 just for mobility whilst I take the full motorbike test whenever I can.
I did consider restoring an Aprilia RS 125 but gave up on that idea. It seems silly to get a big looking bike with a little 125 engine in, as I wouldn't be racing it anyway. Not to mention the expensive oil and maintenance costs needed to keep it in good condition.
Anyway, this potential 125, it will just be used for tiggling around at the weekends really. Would like to be able to ride out with family in the summer, no chance of keeping up with 650 and 1200 bandit at the moment, and it's not so fun having to sit on the back! So as long as it will reach 70mph, it will be fine to tiggle around on =D
I'm looking for something for about 拢700 - 拢900 ish, as that's what I paid for my current bike, and expect to get it back.
I'm not fussed at all about how old it is. My main concern is that it is reliable, and also, It has got to be a 2 smoke!
Also, regarding the height.. Is it just off road trail bikes that have an unbelievably high seat?
I went to the NEC bike show and couldn't even touch one foot on the ground on most of the trail bikes..?!! And they didn't have a side stand..
Any suggestions or feedback is muchly appriciated, many thanks!|||Trail bikes are not street legal cause they have no headlight, tail light, or turn signals. If you want a motorcycle that you can ride on and off the road, then a dual-sport, also called a dual-purpose would be the bike for you. Yes, the seat heights are high on all these bikes so they can go off road. If seat height is going to be an issue, then maybe a small cruiser with a lower seat height would be a better bike for you.
Edit: Sorry, but all the bikes you mentioned, Kawasaki KX125, Suzuki RM125, Honda CR125, Husqvarna CR / WR125, and KTM 125EXC are off road bikes. They do not have the required equipment to be street legal.
Going with the Yamaha DT125R is your best bet.|||Yamaha鈥檚 DT125R is about the best road legal trailie (very popular with thieves though) 鈥?however for you price range reliability at 70 might be a concern, especially at a sustained speed 鈥?I have had two different ones nip up at or around 70 (carrying my non-aerodynamic shape). Rebuilds are, relatively, cheap. RS125s are gorgeous little bikes, especially on bends.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
How do I raise the back of a susuki bandit 400?
Hi, I recently bought a 1995 suzuki bandit 400
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
Why wont my Suzuki Bandit 1200 start?
Purchased a old 97 Bandit a year ago and it ran great, no problems what so ever. Left on a business trip came back and the battery was dead. I jumped it no problem and left again. Long story short its been sitting for a good 6-8 months. When I went to jump it again nothing. I replaced the battery, tried to turn it over and nothing. Checked to make sure the connection to the battery was good and that was fine.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
A good bike for winter riding?
I'm looking to carry on riding through the winter, and possibly snowy days so I have decided to get another bike. (i dont have a car)
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
Motorcycle leaking brownish stuff that smells like gas?
2000 Suzuki Bandit is dripping brownish stuff (oil I assume) that smells like gas after I stop riding. It was dripping off of the engine guard and I couldn't tell where it was coming from. What is wrong with my bike? Approx how much will it cost to get it fixed? Is it ok if I wait until Saturday to take it to the shop?|||When I've had gasoline dripping out of my motorcycles in the past, it's come from these locations:
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
First Bike... Sort of?
Hey I am a 19 year old guy lookin for a first motorcycle. I may have finally convinced my dad to let me get one. I know a decent ammount about bikes but like gettin other opinions. I am also on a pretty tight budget since I am in college. I honestly don't care what kind of bike I get. I definatley want it used, because it needs to be cheap. I am considering sport bikes, cruisers, or naked bikes (spot touring). I am 6' 3" and right around 200 lbs. I have thought hard about a sportster 883, but have been told I would dwarf the bike, and that it has no get up. I want something that will accelerate pretty quick, with a decent top speed. I am not going to be going around poppin wheelies and trying to kill myself like most guys my age, but it is nice to crack the throttle every once and a while. I have also looked at gsxr 750 bandit 1200's sportster 1200s. I really don't care... I just need it cheap, and with decent get-up-and-go. also where should i look, I have been hittin up craigslist?|||Off experience is great, trust me as a 10 years + rider, it will come in handy. Now I gotta break the bad news to you, starting off with something in that list you have there is a good way to move on to the after life. Though I'd never suggest that frickin' Rebel to anyone, especially a 200 pound dude that needs some power to get out of those inevitable lousy situations that will happen, you're best bet is something in the 600's while you're in college. You can always get that dream bike after you get that dream job, but first you gotta gain the road skills to handle it well. Like I said, off road experience is a great start but how many times in those woods or fields were you moving along with say a 40-ton semi heading at you, or perhaps some bozo with one hand on the phone and the other flying around the air? I won't start preaching the I had this and that happen crap, scare you off the road is all that would do; ain't gonna preach helmets and MSF courses cause I'm sure you know where your are on that, but ask yourself where you want to be in 10 years .. moving down the road on your dream bike of than, or perhaps not moving so much no more.
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
What difference will a 33bhp restriction have on my bandit 1200 (1999)?
Hi there,
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
2007 to 2009 Suzuki Bandit 1250S - Cruising on Highway, what RPM Does the engine hold?
I have owned a new Suzuki S40 650cc Big Single Cylinder. Great around town bike for smaller riders. My Problem is I am not a Smaller Rider
***6 Foot tall 290lbs.***
And I enjoy cruising on highways and even Interstates. My S40 is now sitting in the shop waiting for a new Head Gasket that I obliterated trying to keep up with my uncle on the Interstate! Less the 4000 miles!
Here's what I want to know! At what RPM does the new Water Cooled Bandit's hold at 55 65 or 75MPH? Any info would be appriciated. I am already in talks with my dealership for a leftover 08 Bandit 1250S ABS. And I was just curious what the RPM's Would hold for long distance touring?
Thanks.|||I have purchased the same bike that you are looking at. Jump on it because the ones with ABS are rare (In Southern California). In sixth gear your RPMs will be around 3500. Very smooth. I can be in 3rd gear and stay under 5000 all day long. Check out MaximumSuzuki.net(?) or motorcycle-journal.com, bandit section.
You wont believe the gearing ratio on this bike. Great machine.
Good Luck
Chris.|||What gear are you in?|||I have a '98 bandit 1200. It's a 5 gear. At 80mph, in 5th gear,it's about 5000 rpm. Rpm s will be lower if the newer ones have 6 gears.
***6 Foot tall 290lbs.***
And I enjoy cruising on highways and even Interstates. My S40 is now sitting in the shop waiting for a new Head Gasket that I obliterated trying to keep up with my uncle on the Interstate! Less the 4000 miles!
Here's what I want to know! At what RPM does the new Water Cooled Bandit's hold at 55 65 or 75MPH? Any info would be appriciated. I am already in talks with my dealership for a leftover 08 Bandit 1250S ABS. And I was just curious what the RPM's Would hold for long distance touring?
Thanks.|||I have purchased the same bike that you are looking at. Jump on it because the ones with ABS are rare (In Southern California). In sixth gear your RPMs will be around 3500. Very smooth. I can be in 3rd gear and stay under 5000 all day long. Check out MaximumSuzuki.net(?) or motorcycle-journal.com, bandit section.
You wont believe the gearing ratio on this bike. Great machine.
Good Luck
Chris.|||What gear are you in?|||I have a '98 bandit 1200. It's a 5 gear. At 80mph, in 5th gear,it's about 5000 rpm. Rpm s will be lower if the newer ones have 6 gears.
My Bandit and its exhaust.?
Right, long story short, I have just got a new Motorcycle, A Suzuki Bandit 600! The fella I purchased this Motorcycle from has a very Lovely sounding Scorpion exhaust. It is road legal and has had 3 MOTs with the exhaust attached. My friend today told me I have to 'declare' this to my insurer, as a possible result they could not insure me or charge me a bomb more!
I'm 18, 2 years no claims the bike is restricted to 33BHP due to the license I hold.
All i'm asking is someone to just make this clearer for me, do I declare? what will happen if i do and don't? and any other helpful information with this.
I don't want to be doing anything I should not be, even if the cost may rise. Better to be safe.
Thanks guys!!
Geoff|||Well, I'm pretty sure your insurer is not reading this question, so I'm not really sure why you're asking us and not them. In fact, it seems like you've already answered your own question when you say "I don't want to be doing anything I should not be".
But community guidelines say I have to make an honest attempt to answer your question, which is "do I declare?", so my answer is, "Yes, honesty is the best policy. Better safe than crying".
I'm 18, 2 years no claims the bike is restricted to 33BHP due to the license I hold.
All i'm asking is someone to just make this clearer for me, do I declare? what will happen if i do and don't? and any other helpful information with this.
I don't want to be doing anything I should not be, even if the cost may rise. Better to be safe.
Thanks guys!!
Geoff|||Well, I'm pretty sure your insurer is not reading this question, so I'm not really sure why you're asking us and not them. In fact, it seems like you've already answered your own question when you say "I don't want to be doing anything I should not be".
But community guidelines say I have to make an honest attempt to answer your question, which is "do I declare?", so my answer is, "Yes, honesty is the best policy. Better safe than crying".
600 bandit need help asap oil leak?
i have a hole in the oil cooler on my 600 suzuki bandit just wondered how to blank it off as its to much money for a new one. will it cause any harm to the bike? im short of funds need help asap many thanks|||STOP.
This engine is specifically designed with oil spray cooling to the underside of the pistons. it is a unique design feature of this series of engines. You cannot run this engine for anything more than a few minutes without an oil cooler without doing permanent damage.
also the engine runs on a pressurised system and the loss of oil would be sufficient to compromise the engine too, so please don't even consider trying to run with the lines blanked off. not even to test the engine.its is a pumped system SACS...
the aftermarket mocal unit is comparable but surely if you can't afford to repair the bike what sort of condition is the rest of the bike in.. if you can't afford to repair it get the pushbike out and save your cash and save your engine.. also order a rad screen as well while you are at it, a nice stainless steel one, not because it looks nice but as it is low maintainance.. I've got to say that it must have been one hell of a stone to damage the rad.|||This engine is mainly oil cooled, so the cooler must not be blanked off or removed as all of the engine luubricating oil flows through it at all times.
Do not try and plug it as you will never get a good seal with an oily surface.
I know a genuine cooler is around £70, but how much is a replacement engine?|||oh no no better invest on this one rather than letting it as it is and later you get a massive wreck and loadz of money to spend on it... where is that leak? where you grip to open the cap? or is it the rubber band? i dunno but 'ive had such problems and i learned my lessons.. remember is a 600 I-4...not a 100cc...massive heat, oil heating, pushing more its way out... never know what may happen..so be responsible...if you don't have money, don't ride it... anything to do with engine must be treated asap.. this will add up and cause even bigger problem if not repaired...|||DON'T plug the lines!
Oil flows through for a reason. It goes somewhere after the cooler.
For temporary only, splice the lines together to bypass the cooler.
Not having a cooler on anything designed with one will cause problems.
This may get you home, the other way will trash your ride.|||This engine relies on oil cooling. If you plug the lines you could cause the engine to overheat and seize up. Phone around the breakers or look on ebay for S/H one. They are very common bike, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one cheap. It will cost you a lot more if blow the engine.|||There is a cooler for a reason.If Suzuki could get away without using it they would have.I am assuming your cooler is made of aluminum.Doesn't really matter.There are good apoxies on the market that will seal this hole.Good Luck.|||JB Weld. Oops, I didn't just type that did I? Screw it, If its a small hole or tiny little crack I would just spackle a little JB Weld over it. Not like your going to hurt it any further. Just try to get it replaced ASAP. |||You can buy a brand new 10 row mocal for £40 to fit this bike mate. Look further into it before buying a second hand one.|||Get a used one from the cycle salvage yard.|||take the oil cooler off and plug the lines
you don't need it|||it really depends on where is holed...it could be alloy welded,or filled/sealed....but keep an eye on it.
This engine is specifically designed with oil spray cooling to the underside of the pistons. it is a unique design feature of this series of engines. You cannot run this engine for anything more than a few minutes without an oil cooler without doing permanent damage.
also the engine runs on a pressurised system and the loss of oil would be sufficient to compromise the engine too, so please don't even consider trying to run with the lines blanked off. not even to test the engine.its is a pumped system SACS...
the aftermarket mocal unit is comparable but surely if you can't afford to repair the bike what sort of condition is the rest of the bike in.. if you can't afford to repair it get the pushbike out and save your cash and save your engine.. also order a rad screen as well while you are at it, a nice stainless steel one, not because it looks nice but as it is low maintainance.. I've got to say that it must have been one hell of a stone to damage the rad.|||This engine is mainly oil cooled, so the cooler must not be blanked off or removed as all of the engine luubricating oil flows through it at all times.
Do not try and plug it as you will never get a good seal with an oily surface.
I know a genuine cooler is around £70, but how much is a replacement engine?|||oh no no better invest on this one rather than letting it as it is and later you get a massive wreck and loadz of money to spend on it... where is that leak? where you grip to open the cap? or is it the rubber band? i dunno but 'ive had such problems and i learned my lessons.. remember is a 600 I-4...not a 100cc...massive heat, oil heating, pushing more its way out... never know what may happen..so be responsible...if you don't have money, don't ride it... anything to do with engine must be treated asap.. this will add up and cause even bigger problem if not repaired...|||DON'T plug the lines!
Oil flows through for a reason. It goes somewhere after the cooler.
For temporary only, splice the lines together to bypass the cooler.
Not having a cooler on anything designed with one will cause problems.
This may get you home, the other way will trash your ride.|||This engine relies on oil cooling. If you plug the lines you could cause the engine to overheat and seize up. Phone around the breakers or look on ebay for S/H one. They are very common bike, you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one cheap. It will cost you a lot more if blow the engine.|||There is a cooler for a reason.If Suzuki could get away without using it they would have.I am assuming your cooler is made of aluminum.Doesn't really matter.There are good apoxies on the market that will seal this hole.Good Luck.|||JB Weld. Oops, I didn't just type that did I? Screw it, If its a small hole or tiny little crack I would just spackle a little JB Weld over it. Not like your going to hurt it any further. Just try to get it replaced ASAP. |||You can buy a brand new 10 row mocal for £40 to fit this bike mate. Look further into it before buying a second hand one.|||Get a used one from the cycle salvage yard.|||take the oil cooler off and plug the lines
you don't need it|||it really depends on where is holed...it could be alloy welded,or filled/sealed....but keep an eye on it.
I have a 2000 suzuki bandit 600s. It stalls out all the time and lacks power from time to time.?
I bought this 2000 suzuki bandit from a private seller. The ad description said that it had been fully synced and the carbs were recently cleaned.. It was alse suposedly looked at by a well known shop. The owner also said that this bike had been sitting for about 3 and a half years. This bike only has 4000 miles and it ran great for the first month.. now it only stays on when tha choke is on, and the knob that regulates the idle doesnt do anything when turned. What could be the problem?|||Probably has a clogged passagway in the carbs or an airleak into the carbs, (it runs WITH THE CHOKE, right) Probably he spent a bunch of money on the carbs and didn't clean the fuel sytem, or the previous mechanic was inept.
So, try this, pt about a gallon of fresh gas into your tank. Go to the Autoparts store, buy 2 cans of sea foam, open the first one up and pour it into the tank. Ride it back home, let it sit, and soak your carbs, then ride it around the block fiully warmed up, and if it's not right, park it again, over night, repeat as necessary.
IT should clean the tank and carbs sparkling clean, in a couple of days, IF the problem was it sat with bad gas. If the Problem was actually rust/debris in the jets this will not clean it up. If so, and its not clean by day four, Give UP and take it to the dealer, and have their man tear into the carbs. If it DOES work, it will be remarkable how well it runs and how well it saves you a great sum of money.
The second can? I imagine I hear you say.
Treat your own gas, fill the tank up and pour an ounce or two of Sea Foam into the tank, and you can park it for a year with no repercussions.
Or just pour the second can in...
If the sea foam does a good job a year is all a fuel stabilizer is good for, it may not make it any better with twice as much, but it MIGHT.
and you have a full can, anyway...|||Probably, the carbs are scaled up with plaque from sitting plus a tune up. You will have to remover the carbs and take then in for a proper cleaning (including disassemble). Plus its ready for a tune up. The bike sounds worth it though.
So, try this, pt about a gallon of fresh gas into your tank. Go to the Autoparts store, buy 2 cans of sea foam, open the first one up and pour it into the tank. Ride it back home, let it sit, and soak your carbs, then ride it around the block fiully warmed up, and if it's not right, park it again, over night, repeat as necessary.
IT should clean the tank and carbs sparkling clean, in a couple of days, IF the problem was it sat with bad gas. If the Problem was actually rust/debris in the jets this will not clean it up. If so, and its not clean by day four, Give UP and take it to the dealer, and have their man tear into the carbs. If it DOES work, it will be remarkable how well it runs and how well it saves you a great sum of money.
The second can? I imagine I hear you say.
Treat your own gas, fill the tank up and pour an ounce or two of Sea Foam into the tank, and you can park it for a year with no repercussions.
Or just pour the second can in...
If the sea foam does a good job a year is all a fuel stabilizer is good for, it may not make it any better with twice as much, but it MIGHT.
and you have a full can, anyway...|||Probably, the carbs are scaled up with plaque from sitting plus a tune up. You will have to remover the carbs and take then in for a proper cleaning (including disassemble). Plus its ready for a tune up. The bike sounds worth it though.
SUzuki Bandit 600 Smoking at high revs?
Hi,
I have a 2000 model bandit 600 that is smoking when i ride it up the road quite a bit!
Firstly last winter i left the fuel tap to the 'prime' position which flooded the carbs and air filter eventually circulating through the gearbox after i had figured this out i cleaned it all and replaced the oil/filter and air filter as well as removed the carbs and cleaned them.
It now runs better but when i took it down the road for a test run it smoked out the road behind me and also the clutch was slipping at high revs.
The bike doesn't smoke on start up so i am wondering where this smoke is coming from and if it is likely to dissappear if i ride it further - when i noticed it smoking after about 500 yds i turned around and went home.
Cheers|||There are allot of places for gas fumes to accumulate in a dual over head cam design. I suspect you have still got gas in your oil.
You could simply ride it, the gas will eventually be absorbed by the oil and / or tossed out the PVC into the filter and be burned.
But this is not ideal.
Ideally, you will strip the motor, blueprint it, and put it back together again.
But at least you'll change the oil and treat it with an additive resistant to gas wash out, after a short warm up ride (treat it twice once now once after), so-as not to wash the oil out of your valve guides and ruin your top end. Then you will repeat this, and again, as long as it smokes.
~ Or ~ you will wring the filter out better and carefully reassemble if you have a foam air filter and you over lubed it and the engine is thus sucking in oil at high RPMs because it's drawing more air and this is causing the smoke.|||check the engine oil and the transmission oil after riding and see if it smells like gas still. Change it if there is even a whiff of gas. so far what I think as far as the smoke is that the gas washed down everything and your rings have not seated in yet with the fresh oil. Driving the bike will help seat the rings. I dont know what is up with the clutch, Skip the high revs for now and just take a liesurely cruise and see how the bike runs after breaking in the oil. Im hoping you are using recommended oil for your motorcycle and not a synthetic brand (unless recommended.|||What color is the smoke? Blue? Black? Does it linger?
I have a 2000 model bandit 600 that is smoking when i ride it up the road quite a bit!
Firstly last winter i left the fuel tap to the 'prime' position which flooded the carbs and air filter eventually circulating through the gearbox after i had figured this out i cleaned it all and replaced the oil/filter and air filter as well as removed the carbs and cleaned them.
It now runs better but when i took it down the road for a test run it smoked out the road behind me and also the clutch was slipping at high revs.
The bike doesn't smoke on start up so i am wondering where this smoke is coming from and if it is likely to dissappear if i ride it further - when i noticed it smoking after about 500 yds i turned around and went home.
Cheers|||There are allot of places for gas fumes to accumulate in a dual over head cam design. I suspect you have still got gas in your oil.
You could simply ride it, the gas will eventually be absorbed by the oil and / or tossed out the PVC into the filter and be burned.
But this is not ideal.
Ideally, you will strip the motor, blueprint it, and put it back together again.
But at least you'll change the oil and treat it with an additive resistant to gas wash out, after a short warm up ride (treat it twice once now once after), so-as not to wash the oil out of your valve guides and ruin your top end. Then you will repeat this, and again, as long as it smokes.
~ Or ~ you will wring the filter out better and carefully reassemble if you have a foam air filter and you over lubed it and the engine is thus sucking in oil at high RPMs because it's drawing more air and this is causing the smoke.|||check the engine oil and the transmission oil after riding and see if it smells like gas still. Change it if there is even a whiff of gas. so far what I think as far as the smoke is that the gas washed down everything and your rings have not seated in yet with the fresh oil. Driving the bike will help seat the rings. I dont know what is up with the clutch, Skip the high revs for now and just take a liesurely cruise and see how the bike runs after breaking in the oil. Im hoping you are using recommended oil for your motorcycle and not a synthetic brand (unless recommended.|||What color is the smoke? Blue? Black? Does it linger?
Advice on first time bike buying?
Ive been surfing all over the net doing research on buying my first bike and at first I was dead set on 125cc-250cc range but since having seen them and having a spin on a 200cc I'm very sure the 400cc class is for me, its got power to do some nice speed but is still nicely below the powerhouses of 600cc. Since I'm a student I have a some what limited budget and have looked at the Suzuki Bandit GSF400 and the Honda CB400. The Bandit as far as I can tell isn't being made in 400cc anymore and hasn't been for a long while hence all the deals I can find are 90's versions of the bike but fortunately this means they are quite cheap to buy. The Honda from what Ive seen is still being manufactured to this day but the new ones are way way out of my budget so maybe an early 2000's model would be best. My question is, is buying a potentially 13-17 year old bike a good idea mechanically? Are there any people who can vouch for the two mentioned models of bike? And if there are, can you tell me of any other bikes that have that same general look, the naked frame etc, that will be affordable and all in all a good choice? Any other first time buying advice would be greatly appreciated.|||You're very clearly not in the USA... might want to mention which country to gather more answers from people in your own country (on other models).
But, I have experience with both a '91 Bandit 400 (GSF) and an '89 Honda CB400f (CB-1). The Bandit has some funky weirdness when it comes to the carbs, tons of little plugs and o-rings that wear out over time and tend to need to be replaced before the bike will run well. Those cost me ~$80 for the parts and I did the work myself. They will also kill the CDI unit... no definitive reason as to why, but my educated guess is that it's due to older batteries and sub-par charging systems.
The Honda's you're looking at are more than likely Vastly different from the models we have in the US. They made more HP, were more robust and ironically they are more rare.
Both were bulletproof when it came to the engines and highly capable sporting machines. If you're looking for that kind of package, perhaps you have access to the Ducati Monster 400? I really don't know what other naked 400 bikes are out there as they vanished from the US in 1991.
Good luck.|||My bike is from '98 and still in good technical shape. Street bikes are only having problems with engines mileage. There can be little corrosion here and there but nothing serious.
I own Honda and I can tell it's very reliable.|||target.walmart.|||go talk to a few motorcycle shops about reliability, repair costs and availability of parts.
But, I have experience with both a '91 Bandit 400 (GSF) and an '89 Honda CB400f (CB-1). The Bandit has some funky weirdness when it comes to the carbs, tons of little plugs and o-rings that wear out over time and tend to need to be replaced before the bike will run well. Those cost me ~$80 for the parts and I did the work myself. They will also kill the CDI unit... no definitive reason as to why, but my educated guess is that it's due to older batteries and sub-par charging systems.
The Honda's you're looking at are more than likely Vastly different from the models we have in the US. They made more HP, were more robust and ironically they are more rare.
Both were bulletproof when it came to the engines and highly capable sporting machines. If you're looking for that kind of package, perhaps you have access to the Ducati Monster 400? I really don't know what other naked 400 bikes are out there as they vanished from the US in 1991.
Good luck.|||My bike is from '98 and still in good technical shape. Street bikes are only having problems with engines mileage. There can be little corrosion here and there but nothing serious.
I own Honda and I can tell it's very reliable.|||target.walmart.|||go talk to a few motorcycle shops about reliability, repair costs and availability of parts.
My 99' Suzuki Bandit 600 will not start!!!?
Hi All,
my Bandit 600 has been giving me problems,first the cold weather killed the battery,I charged it up and put it back on,the bike tried to turn over but couldn't and eventually killed the battery. I recharged it and checked the plugs, put it back on and tried again. After about 10 seconds there was a click and then it just clicked only. I then connected the bike to my car,and with it running tried again, it tried to start up again so Im guessing that the battery is knackered,anyway,I kept on trying and it almost fired up but then it clicked out again!
Now it only clicks,I pulled off the cover of the starter motor cable and the lead was really hot. Is my starter motor broken? Hope someone can help me!! Thank you!|||Hi,
I would say that your bike battery is dead,
your cable and electrics will get hot jumping your bike of your car as it will be a different amperage supply to your bike and the starter will get hot and constant winding or repeated starting will get the cables hot too.
if your battery has a dead cell it may affect the voltage during the jump starting of your bike even with it connected to your car.
It is hard to condemn your starter motor but when you jumped it did it turn over as quick as it usually does.
with the jump connected did it fire up and run or was it still a non starter.
sometimes with with a dead batt it will affect the start coz all the power is being drain for that and the ecu and ignition gets a lower voltage delivery.
I would check all the connection from the battery to the starter and the ignition side as well as the switched side of the starter control.
Perhaps even remove the starter from the bike and see if connected to a good battery it will spin free and fast without any load,
try jump starting it without the old bike battery connected to see if it is dead and affects the voltage.
If your road has no snow, which isn't very likely try and bump the bike as this will allow all the voltage generated by the alternator to be used by the ignition only and not trying to power the starter motor.
Let us know how you get on.|||Hey, im having similar trouble as you at the moment (i have a bandit 600 too) What colour is your spark? Im getting an orange coloured spark and i think my battery is dying quick aswell. I think your starter motor will be fine, ive tried my for ages to get started but no joy :(|||You need a new battery, you should never run your starter longer than a few seconds at a time if it dosent start then something is wrong.|||You are trying to hard just buy a new battery! The longer you crank the hotter the wiring will get.|||Your battery is toast.|||try throwing it in a pond or off a cliff, OR in a scrapyard
my Bandit 600 has been giving me problems,first the cold weather killed the battery,I charged it up and put it back on,the bike tried to turn over but couldn't and eventually killed the battery. I recharged it and checked the plugs, put it back on and tried again. After about 10 seconds there was a click and then it just clicked only. I then connected the bike to my car,and with it running tried again, it tried to start up again so Im guessing that the battery is knackered,anyway,I kept on trying and it almost fired up but then it clicked out again!
Now it only clicks,I pulled off the cover of the starter motor cable and the lead was really hot. Is my starter motor broken? Hope someone can help me!! Thank you!|||Hi,
I would say that your bike battery is dead,
your cable and electrics will get hot jumping your bike of your car as it will be a different amperage supply to your bike and the starter will get hot and constant winding or repeated starting will get the cables hot too.
if your battery has a dead cell it may affect the voltage during the jump starting of your bike even with it connected to your car.
It is hard to condemn your starter motor but when you jumped it did it turn over as quick as it usually does.
with the jump connected did it fire up and run or was it still a non starter.
sometimes with with a dead batt it will affect the start coz all the power is being drain for that and the ecu and ignition gets a lower voltage delivery.
I would check all the connection from the battery to the starter and the ignition side as well as the switched side of the starter control.
Perhaps even remove the starter from the bike and see if connected to a good battery it will spin free and fast without any load,
try jump starting it without the old bike battery connected to see if it is dead and affects the voltage.
If your road has no snow, which isn't very likely try and bump the bike as this will allow all the voltage generated by the alternator to be used by the ignition only and not trying to power the starter motor.
Let us know how you get on.|||Hey, im having similar trouble as you at the moment (i have a bandit 600 too) What colour is your spark? Im getting an orange coloured spark and i think my battery is dying quick aswell. I think your starter motor will be fine, ive tried my for ages to get started but no joy :(|||You need a new battery, you should never run your starter longer than a few seconds at a time if it dosent start then something is wrong.|||You are trying to hard just buy a new battery! The longer you crank the hotter the wiring will get.|||Your battery is toast.|||try throwing it in a pond or off a cliff, OR in a scrapyard
Bandit 400 help electrical questions?
so i just picked up this bandit 400 for my girlfriend and its having an electrical problem, with the battery sitting on the bench by it self it has a good charge, then when i put the leads from the bike on the charge drops to almost nothing on the dc10 setting, when i turn the ignition key to off most of the charge is restored, minus about 15% of the original charge. any ideas, could it be just a random short in a ground or could it be the ignition switch , could the ignition switch be telling the solioid to fire. help please!!!!
thanks
Richard|||Take the battery to be tested for a dead cell, that can easily explain all your symptoms. Most places do it free. There is no point in going further until you do that first.
Bear in mind that your voltmeter only reflects the voltage, not the charge, or the internal condition of the battery.
thanks
Richard|||Take the battery to be tested for a dead cell, that can easily explain all your symptoms. Most places do it free. There is no point in going further until you do that first.
Bear in mind that your voltmeter only reflects the voltage, not the charge, or the internal condition of the battery.
Would you buy a new Suzuki knowing this?
My brother and I bought 2 new bikes for a summer vacation. His 1200 Bandit leaked gas and ruined the motor before it got 2000 miles. We asked Suzuki to replace the motor so we could go on vacation. They said it鈥檚 to expensive and would cost $3000. After 4 months and the vacation gone they got the motor rebuilt at a their cost of $3700. The dealer wanted to replace the motor but Suzuki squashed that. The gas stained cases and burnt exhaust pipes were not replaced. The bike got nicked and scratched all over from being apart for so long. The rep rode it and looked at it, then said it鈥?good as new. It ran like crap and looked worse. We called Japan for nothing, and even wrote the US CEO all for nothing. We spent $15,000 for the bikes to get Fd. We spent our vacation hassling with Suzuki, and not one person there gave a F! Beware Suzuki鈥檚 warranty is not worth the paper it鈥檚 printed on! Buy one of their lemons and get Fd like we did!|||AMEN brother! They only have to carry you a year on warranty and come up with all sort of b.s. excuses that you did it, not the manufacturer.|||Get a life and move on..u will feel a lot better for it..
|||This is the second time I've seen this exact same rant posted on Yahoo Answers. I've already explained to you that the manufacturer DID NOT screw up your bike... YOUR LOCAL DEALER DID! If your local dealer's mechanic was reasonably competent, you wouldn't have any of the problems you are whining about.
Suzuki of America DID honor their warranty by authorizing your local dealer to rebuild or repair your motor. The fact is that the local dealer's mechanic messed up the job, NOT SUZUKI OF AMERICA.
If you wanted satisfaction, you could have taken the local dealer to court, but since you've already sold the bikes, you can't even do that now, so piss off and stop whining!|||WE REALLY GOT THE PICTURE...this is the 20th time you posted this?????|||I've owned mnay bike sover the years, the last one being a new Suzuki 400. My dealer was great, and promptly fixed a small oil leak that my bike came with. Overall, I htink your experience is not common, though obviously it was a bad one.
I prefer Hondas.|||Screw you, i will continue to race and ride Suzuki's due to their factory sponsorship and racing pedigree. You cant even begin to understand how wrong you are about service and support for one of the finest manufacturers out there.|||Neither mine nor my brother's Suzuki ever had any kind of problem.|||I agree with everyone else... Enough already.
I've worked with Suzuki in the past and found their warranties are as good as anyone else's, and in my situations they have covered things that were obviously due to bonehead owners and not manufacturing issues, which is after all, the only thing that any warranty from any manufacturer on any product covers.
Not once have I ever seen any manufacturer throw a new engine, or machine at any problem. They always fix the original machine using as many of the original parts as possible. Your issue with scratching is between you and whoever repaired it, not the factory. Your issue with the gas staining is between you and whoever allowed the gas to freely flow there and sit long enough to stain, not the factory.
If you honestly think that you were wronged then get a lawyer and take Suzuki to court. But going by just what you have written I'd be sure I had the attorney fees covered before I went to court.|||I'll have to agree with most of the rest of the responders to this question...I have a Suzuki, and I put 10 to 15k a year on it, and no problems. While it does have a different engine than yours, I've never had any problems dealing with Suzuki...sorry to hear of the bad experience.|||I still think you did something wrong as there were no problems for almost 2,000 miles. You ran it on prime position and filled crankcase with gas which trashed motor. I dont work for Suzuki but I have worked on them in the past (1981to 1989)and know this can be a problem when people forget to switch back to reserve or normal ON poition then leave bike sitting for couple of days/weeks (it doesnt happen overnight)
If your going to keep telling this story, at least tell the ENTIRE story, if its something YOU did they didnt have to do any warranty work at all. I dont think any other of the hundreds of thousands of GSX-R/GSX-F or GSF motors made in last 21 yrs have had the same problem or it would be much better known. Suzuki have used the same type of fuel tap since at least 1977 on the GS750
Basically, I like everyone else am tired of hearing the same half of a tale
Report Abuse
|||This is the second time I've seen this exact same rant posted on Yahoo Answers. I've already explained to you that the manufacturer DID NOT screw up your bike... YOUR LOCAL DEALER DID! If your local dealer's mechanic was reasonably competent, you wouldn't have any of the problems you are whining about.
Suzuki of America DID honor their warranty by authorizing your local dealer to rebuild or repair your motor. The fact is that the local dealer's mechanic messed up the job, NOT SUZUKI OF AMERICA.
If you wanted satisfaction, you could have taken the local dealer to court, but since you've already sold the bikes, you can't even do that now, so piss off and stop whining!|||WE REALLY GOT THE PICTURE...this is the 20th time you posted this?????|||I've owned mnay bike sover the years, the last one being a new Suzuki 400. My dealer was great, and promptly fixed a small oil leak that my bike came with. Overall, I htink your experience is not common, though obviously it was a bad one.
I prefer Hondas.|||Screw you, i will continue to race and ride Suzuki's due to their factory sponsorship and racing pedigree. You cant even begin to understand how wrong you are about service and support for one of the finest manufacturers out there.|||Neither mine nor my brother's Suzuki ever had any kind of problem.|||I agree with everyone else... Enough already.
I've worked with Suzuki in the past and found their warranties are as good as anyone else's, and in my situations they have covered things that were obviously due to bonehead owners and not manufacturing issues, which is after all, the only thing that any warranty from any manufacturer on any product covers.
Not once have I ever seen any manufacturer throw a new engine, or machine at any problem. They always fix the original machine using as many of the original parts as possible. Your issue with scratching is between you and whoever repaired it, not the factory. Your issue with the gas staining is between you and whoever allowed the gas to freely flow there and sit long enough to stain, not the factory.
If you honestly think that you were wronged then get a lawyer and take Suzuki to court. But going by just what you have written I'd be sure I had the attorney fees covered before I went to court.|||I'll have to agree with most of the rest of the responders to this question...I have a Suzuki, and I put 10 to 15k a year on it, and no problems. While it does have a different engine than yours, I've never had any problems dealing with Suzuki...sorry to hear of the bad experience.|||I still think you did something wrong as there were no problems for almost 2,000 miles. You ran it on prime position and filled crankcase with gas which trashed motor. I dont work for Suzuki but I have worked on them in the past (1981to 1989)and know this can be a problem when people forget to switch back to reserve or normal ON poition then leave bike sitting for couple of days/weeks (it doesnt happen overnight)
If your going to keep telling this story, at least tell the ENTIRE story, if its something YOU did they didnt have to do any warranty work at all. I dont think any other of the hundreds of thousands of GSX-R/GSX-F or GSF motors made in last 21 yrs have had the same problem or it would be much better known. Suzuki have used the same type of fuel tap since at least 1977 on the GS750
Basically, I like everyone else am tired of hearing the same half of a tale
Bandit 600 wont start without choke and backfires when started, any ideas?
Just bought bandit 600 from someone who had it left for 1 year and now i have put fresh petrol in and it wont start without choke even when hot, occasionaly backfires and will not do more than 70mph, all sparks work and have cleaned out all main jets but one spark plug seems a lot blacker than all rest and sounds like its only running on 3 cylinders. throttle is not responsive, either on or off, contantly stalls at junctions, surely if it the idle jet blocked then it would still run well when you open it up but this is not the case, please help as this is my first big bike and not going well so far.|||The carb is gummed up and the jets are clogged from sitting so long. No help for it but taking the carb apart and cleaning it.|||take the carbs apart %26amp; clean them . next year put Sea Foam in the gas %26amp; run it for 10 min . it will start in the spring %26amp; run great
My K8 Bandit 1250SA "pops" a lot since I fitted an aftermarket end can?
I bought my Bandit new in 2008 and liked everything about it except for the dustbin on the back Suzuki calls an end can. I purchased a twin outlet aftermarket end can from Bandit Mania which looks and sounds very nice. The problem is that as I roll off the throttle when slowing down for junctions and lights I get a lot of popping from the new can. Is this a problem that needs to be sorted or can I just ignore it. I don't want to cause any long term damage to my bike.|||You changed the amount of back pressure ,by going to free flowing exhaust-now you must re jet it to make it not pop anymore.Yup you should get that fixed as this can lead to burned out valves.That's the problem with changing cans,it is not as simple as the exhaust makers tell you it is,funny how they never mentioned a backfire when you bought it....The best sound does not always go hand in hand with the best performance.|||That dustbin you threw out was jetted for the bike. The new one isn't.
Pilot jet too lean. Probably worth the $50 to do a Dyno run to figure out where you are.
Pilot jet too lean. Probably worth the $50 to do a Dyno run to figure out where you are.
Suzuki bandit 1200 motorbike coughs when engine is cold. what could be causing it?
my suzuki gsf1200 bandit '02 motorbike has a problem where when revved at standstill between 1100rpm(idle) and 2000rpm it 'coughs' back into the carbs when the engine is cold and mildly warm. Only when it is fully warmed up will it rev without this 'coughing' back on itself.
I checked the carb balance this evening by attaching my morgan vacuum gauges and the carbs were only slightly out of balance, which i've now adjusted. But what i did notice is it coughs on all 4 cylinders, and randomly, when it coughs the gauge suddenly drops then returns to where it was.
Its done 10,000miles now, i've just bought the bike, and i know the valve clearances need checking/adjusting at 7,500miles so that is next on my list of things to do.
The bike had stood for a year before i bought it, but just these last few days i've done 200miles and it still does it. I have been told maybe the carbs are in need of a clean due to the fuel going off causing a residue to be left which affects the running.
Any help is appreciated.|||I know it's the expensive option (which therefore may not be an option) but take it to a Suzuki dealer for a full service - you've only just got the bike, you don't know it too well at the moment and it might be an easy fix for the service techs at a dealership.
It's what I'd do, anyway. Just get the whole bike checked out by those who know them. Then consider servicing it yourself from that point on.|||It turns out it is indeed because the mixture is lean. Because it's an old engine design they lean the mixture more and more to get it through the strict emission tests. I have done a huge amount of investigating and raising the main jet needle by 1mm has almost cured it. Can be done in situ.
|||I checked and adjusted the valve clearances, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, genuine air filter, have removed the carbs 7 times in total, thoroughly cleaned and float height set correct. Jets cleared out. Carbs balanced. Still did it. The answer was to raise the needle to richen up the mixture
|||Try replacing the spark plugs?
Good luck with adjusting the valve clearance of the Bandit. It is not for amateurs. Your will need special tools and tons of patience. If you plan to do it, get a repair or service manual.
Check the valve clearance for now, if not too much out of specs, let it be. Enjoy your bike first.|||Uh, the engine is cold and combustion is not as effective as it will be when it warms up. Let it warm up before revving it. Its not good to rev a cold engine.|||Mark is correct. usually means a lean condition, more choke, and let warm up some
before riding or ride easier till it warms up.|||Install new spark plugs and air filter.|||I'd bet money that if you can find the pilot jet screws on the sides of the carbs and richened the idle mix up a bit, that would stop the lean running carb backfire. The screws may be hidden under sealed tamper-proof plugs, although that doesn't mean they can't be removed. Neither can I tell you which way to turn the screws because while the screws on most control fuel, on a few they control air (like my '79 Kaw). See if you can find a yahoo owners group for your bike and ask someone who knows.
While it never hurts to tune a bike up and clean the filters, etc, a dirty air filter would only effect high speed running, bad plugs would either cause very hard starting or misfire under heavy load although at 10k miles, I'd go ahead and replace them and too tight valves needing adjustment will cause hard starting and sudden dying until thoroughly warmed up.|||This sound is old oil or wrong spark.or wrong oil.it can be electrice problem.so
1-change or clean air filter
2-change or clean the spark and make sur is correct one
3-change the oil engine and oil filter
4-check the battery.
I checked the carb balance this evening by attaching my morgan vacuum gauges and the carbs were only slightly out of balance, which i've now adjusted. But what i did notice is it coughs on all 4 cylinders, and randomly, when it coughs the gauge suddenly drops then returns to where it was.
Its done 10,000miles now, i've just bought the bike, and i know the valve clearances need checking/adjusting at 7,500miles so that is next on my list of things to do.
The bike had stood for a year before i bought it, but just these last few days i've done 200miles and it still does it. I have been told maybe the carbs are in need of a clean due to the fuel going off causing a residue to be left which affects the running.
Any help is appreciated.|||I know it's the expensive option (which therefore may not be an option) but take it to a Suzuki dealer for a full service - you've only just got the bike, you don't know it too well at the moment and it might be an easy fix for the service techs at a dealership.
It's what I'd do, anyway. Just get the whole bike checked out by those who know them. Then consider servicing it yourself from that point on.|||It turns out it is indeed because the mixture is lean. Because it's an old engine design they lean the mixture more and more to get it through the strict emission tests. I have done a huge amount of investigating and raising the main jet needle by 1mm has almost cured it. Can be done in situ.
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|||I checked and adjusted the valve clearances, new spark plugs, new oil and filter, genuine air filter, have removed the carbs 7 times in total, thoroughly cleaned and float height set correct. Jets cleared out. Carbs balanced. Still did it. The answer was to raise the needle to richen up the mixture
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|||Try replacing the spark plugs?
Good luck with adjusting the valve clearance of the Bandit. It is not for amateurs. Your will need special tools and tons of patience. If you plan to do it, get a repair or service manual.
Check the valve clearance for now, if not too much out of specs, let it be. Enjoy your bike first.|||Uh, the engine is cold and combustion is not as effective as it will be when it warms up. Let it warm up before revving it. Its not good to rev a cold engine.|||Mark is correct. usually means a lean condition, more choke, and let warm up some
before riding or ride easier till it warms up.|||Install new spark plugs and air filter.|||I'd bet money that if you can find the pilot jet screws on the sides of the carbs and richened the idle mix up a bit, that would stop the lean running carb backfire. The screws may be hidden under sealed tamper-proof plugs, although that doesn't mean they can't be removed. Neither can I tell you which way to turn the screws because while the screws on most control fuel, on a few they control air (like my '79 Kaw). See if you can find a yahoo owners group for your bike and ask someone who knows.
While it never hurts to tune a bike up and clean the filters, etc, a dirty air filter would only effect high speed running, bad plugs would either cause very hard starting or misfire under heavy load although at 10k miles, I'd go ahead and replace them and too tight valves needing adjustment will cause hard starting and sudden dying until thoroughly warmed up.|||This sound is old oil or wrong spark.or wrong oil.it can be electrice problem.so
1-change or clean air filter
2-change or clean the spark and make sur is correct one
3-change the oil engine and oil filter
4-check the battery.
Bandit 600N carburetor clean?
I need to clean my Carb on the bandit. I found a website with pictures included - step by step guide. How ever I cant find the page now.
Anyone else done the carb cleaning on a Bandit?
I just need step by step guide. My garage is booked up for weeks. Plus, this is kinda an old bike for me so I dont mind playing around on it.
Any advice that could point me into the right direction?|||every-thing's OK ,except, do not leave it overnight.may chew the body of the crbtr.
Anyone else done the carb cleaning on a Bandit?
I just need step by step guide. My garage is booked up for weeks. Plus, this is kinda an old bike for me so I dont mind playing around on it.
Any advice that could point me into the right direction?|||every-thing's OK ,except, do not leave it overnight.may chew the body of the crbtr.
Suzuki bandit idle screw won't turn out?
I have a 1996 gsf600s bandit, the idle screw won't turn out, the spring holds it from turning out any. The bike has no room to get any leverage on the crappy little knob. Does anyone know a trick to not have to tear the carbs off the bike?|||Guardrailjim has given you good advice as usual on how to loosen the idle adjustment screw. Regarding your new problem, it is probably time for a tune-up. I suspect that your carbs are in need of synchronization, could possibly also be a tight valve(s). If you end up going to a shop for a tune-up request both procedures.|||Spray the threads with penetrating oil.
Stick both index fingers at the knob.
One finger - roll the knob away from you.
The other finger - roll the knob towards you.
Or use a screw driver.
Push the knob to roll it and use a finger on the other side of the screw to roll the knob in the other direction.
Stick both index fingers at the knob.
One finger - roll the knob away from you.
The other finger - roll the knob towards you.
Or use a screw driver.
Push the knob to roll it and use a finger on the other side of the screw to roll the knob in the other direction.
Bandit 600 shuts off and dies?
A couple days ago y was riding my 2003 Bandit-S 600, got to a toll booth, made the paymente and draged pressing the throttle to release al the hps of my bike, but... close to 10,000 rpms it went off, completely off ... all lights went off and the engine too, even the speedmeter and odometer got frozen. Just the oil light was quite lit but ... blinking as if something were fault. After 10 minutes of pushing 400 pounds to the nearest safe place I tried to start the engine and it started, everithing seemed fine, but my bike is doing this every now wnd then. Another hint is the clock goes 12:00 as if I had disconencted the battery yet it is firmely connected.|||you have a short somewhere, probably in your main battery cables, replace the cables to your wiring harness and if that doesn't work replace the whole harness, but I would probably take it in to be sure first these can cost mucho $$$$ if I'm wrong you won't need them.|||I don't have a Bandit...but had something like your problem. I found out I had a loose connection on one of the plug wires going to my ignition switch...right behind the key mount. I traced mine from battery to everything I could find a wire going to...then I noticed a prong bent and the wire just barely connected. Plugged it back in and everything works fine.|||You have a bad connection in your electrical system. It might be corrosion, or it might be that something that was screwed down has vibrated loose.
First thing to check: fuses. On my motorcycle, (Yamaha Virago) believe it or not, one of my fuses vibrated loose once!
First thing to check: fuses. On my motorcycle, (Yamaha Virago) believe it or not, one of my fuses vibrated loose once!
C.B.T HELP (compulsory bike training)?
Im almost 16 and am looking at getting a geared 50cc motorbike(mopeds just make u look like a ****) my dad has had motorcycles all his life and currently on a suzuki bandit 1300 but cause his experienced(old age) the rules have changed
Ive had experience on bikes before ive ridden at out 40mph before off road and ive been 110mph on the back of the bandit
My question is can you own a 50cc de-resticted bike or is it illegal because going only 30mph between around 5 gears might be abit annoying|||hi mate..
ANT is a valid answer although its the law 30 m.p.h.
i also agree fully with his coment there safe and they make a safe rider
the guy who says 125cc WELL your not of legal age untill you are 17 but guess your allready aware of that not like he is..
personally de-restrict it stick to the 30 mph ..BUT USE THE SPEED TO GET YOU OUT OF DIFFICULT SITUATIONS ..
take it easy and safe rideing and do your observations and dont forget those life savers and you be ok |||First of all, the legal definition of a "moped" specifically refers to the engine capacity. A "moped" is 'Any powered two wheeler, with an engine capacity not exceeding 50cc'.
So, whether you like it of not, you are going to have to buy a moped. What you are referring to is actually a 'scooter', which is a STYLE of bike and does NOT refer to the engine capacity. There are scooters with 650cc engines, for example.
Secondly, it is an offence to de-restrict a moped, until you have passed the appropriate driving test (Category P).
By the way, C.B.T. stands for 'Compulsory Basic Training'...|||Legally, you must be restricted to 30mph as with ANY 50cc moped.
But, the chances of getting caught and prosecuted are near zero. And i dont know ANYONE who has been caught.
Ant
Edit: To fivetoze, whats safer to you? Doing 30mph, causing hazard on dual carraigeways and slow acceleration into main roads and into roundabouts, or a safer 40/45mph where you can keep up with the flow of traffic and have quicker acceleration to avoid dangerous situations and have a little more power to keep out of danger. With virtually no chance of being caught, let alone convicted.
You tell me.|||er, its slow and boring for a reason.. primarily so you dont kill yourself.
yes its boring, yes its slow, and you still look like a prat... but youll live longer..
and thank Ant... coz when you take his advice, and have a crash youll know who to blame because plod will nick your for NOT having a licence, and your insurance will be invalid...
i know we all break the law, i did, and no doubt your dad did... but these days they jail you for it...
|||If your bike does more than 30 then your not legal, the chance's of being caught are slim but if your caught speeding your busted straight away or if you come across one of these.
http://www.hampshire.police.uk/Internet/鈥?/a>
|||ask your dad for a pre 12bhp restriction 50cc like a suzuki x1 or fs1e yamaha old 50cc bikes were a f### site faster and still are get on and enjoy|||Start looking for an old Yam FS1E. They are a wicked bit of kit. We used to get nearly 70 out of my mates which had a watercooled kit on it.|||Its restricted until you pass your test mate. The second part, not just the CBT.|||BUY something bigger... 125cc 2 stroke,, Suzuki RG or similar..
80 MPH.. good brakes.. %26amp; learner legal
Ive had experience on bikes before ive ridden at out 40mph before off road and ive been 110mph on the back of the bandit
My question is can you own a 50cc de-resticted bike or is it illegal because going only 30mph between around 5 gears might be abit annoying|||hi mate..
ANT is a valid answer although its the law 30 m.p.h.
i also agree fully with his coment there safe and they make a safe rider
the guy who says 125cc WELL your not of legal age untill you are 17 but guess your allready aware of that not like he is..
personally de-restrict it stick to the 30 mph ..BUT USE THE SPEED TO GET YOU OUT OF DIFFICULT SITUATIONS ..
take it easy and safe rideing and do your observations and dont forget those life savers and you be ok |||First of all, the legal definition of a "moped" specifically refers to the engine capacity. A "moped" is 'Any powered two wheeler, with an engine capacity not exceeding 50cc'.
So, whether you like it of not, you are going to have to buy a moped. What you are referring to is actually a 'scooter', which is a STYLE of bike and does NOT refer to the engine capacity. There are scooters with 650cc engines, for example.
Secondly, it is an offence to de-restrict a moped, until you have passed the appropriate driving test (Category P).
By the way, C.B.T. stands for 'Compulsory Basic Training'...|||Legally, you must be restricted to 30mph as with ANY 50cc moped.
But, the chances of getting caught and prosecuted are near zero. And i dont know ANYONE who has been caught.
Ant
Edit: To fivetoze, whats safer to you? Doing 30mph, causing hazard on dual carraigeways and slow acceleration into main roads and into roundabouts, or a safer 40/45mph where you can keep up with the flow of traffic and have quicker acceleration to avoid dangerous situations and have a little more power to keep out of danger. With virtually no chance of being caught, let alone convicted.
You tell me.|||er, its slow and boring for a reason.. primarily so you dont kill yourself.
yes its boring, yes its slow, and you still look like a prat... but youll live longer..
and thank Ant... coz when you take his advice, and have a crash youll know who to blame because plod will nick your for NOT having a licence, and your insurance will be invalid...
i know we all break the law, i did, and no doubt your dad did... but these days they jail you for it...
|||If your bike does more than 30 then your not legal, the chance's of being caught are slim but if your caught speeding your busted straight away or if you come across one of these.
http://www.hampshire.police.uk/Internet/鈥?/a>
|||ask your dad for a pre 12bhp restriction 50cc like a suzuki x1 or fs1e yamaha old 50cc bikes were a f### site faster and still are get on and enjoy|||Start looking for an old Yam FS1E. They are a wicked bit of kit. We used to get nearly 70 out of my mates which had a watercooled kit on it.|||Its restricted until you pass your test mate. The second part, not just the CBT.|||BUY something bigger... 125cc 2 stroke,, Suzuki RG or similar..
80 MPH.. good brakes.. %26amp; learner legal
Suzuki Bandit 400 starting issues, I NEED A PRO!?
Hello folks bought this 92 suzuki bandit as a start up from my learners and I've had nothing but trouble. I'm mechanically inclined so you can get technical on me. I bought the bike and it was running ok but would stall and seemed to have a rough idle and surge a bit. I knew it was the carbs so I took them to a reputable garage and had them cleaned and balanced, new iridium plugs, new oil, new prestone, new air filter, new petcock. It started first shot and idled well and ran like a new bike. It was like that for a few days and now it seems when ever I leave it for more than 3 days without riding it it won't start! It turns over but won't catch except for sometimes when I mess with it for a long time (short busts of 15 seconds, putting choke on and off etc.) I was told that the gas where I am living is absolute crap and to drain the floats if I leave it for a week which I have tried but to no avail. I pulled out the plugs and they were dry but a little bit black, cleaned them off too. I have 750 coil packs because the 400 ones are known for being weak. If I use bigger coils could it just be I need a stronger battery? It does turn over quite quick though. Please help it's a lovely bike but I'm running out of patience and might swap it for a little fxr 150 if this keeps up. The 600$ carb job really hurt and all I really want it to do is start when I go out in the morning so I can take it to Uni.|||dude you got screwed 600.00 for a carb job you could bought new ones cheaper!!! for that kind of money i would bring it back to the carb guy, and don't put out any more large amounts of cash like that again.|||Fuel tap.
If you leave it in the "On" position for a few days, the fuel will leak into the carbs and flood them, hence like no spark to start.
If you switch it to off after parking, then back to on when you want to go, it should be absolutely fine.
If you have left it on, and need to start it,
switch fuel tap to off, choke off, No throttle, and short bursts of 10second starting. the fuel that has seeped into the carbs will run through the system, when it fires, you can put fuel to on or reserve and you might need to re-start with the choke.|||are u running gasoline that contains ethanol?? because if u are that is most likely the problem it eats teh seals in small engines horribly.....has made boat shops small engine repair and motorcycle repair shops tons of money since it came onto the market....
isn't great for cars either in that department but they have big enough fuel system to overcome the issue and fuel injected seals are made with better gaskets that are not eaten by the ethanol....... i know of a boat shop that rebuild a carb 4 times at $500 per b4 they told the owner of the boat to stop using ethanol gas......
most gas stations now have 10 prct ethanol and those that don't cost more.........also Stabil now makes a new product to counteract this but it runs 2-3 times what there normal stabil does......
so either buy the blue stabil....or buy gas from a station that does not have ethanol in the gas and see if that helps....
If you leave it in the "On" position for a few days, the fuel will leak into the carbs and flood them, hence like no spark to start.
If you switch it to off after parking, then back to on when you want to go, it should be absolutely fine.
If you have left it on, and need to start it,
switch fuel tap to off, choke off, No throttle, and short bursts of 10second starting. the fuel that has seeped into the carbs will run through the system, when it fires, you can put fuel to on or reserve and you might need to re-start with the choke.|||are u running gasoline that contains ethanol?? because if u are that is most likely the problem it eats teh seals in small engines horribly.....has made boat shops small engine repair and motorcycle repair shops tons of money since it came onto the market....
isn't great for cars either in that department but they have big enough fuel system to overcome the issue and fuel injected seals are made with better gaskets that are not eaten by the ethanol....... i know of a boat shop that rebuild a carb 4 times at $500 per b4 they told the owner of the boat to stop using ethanol gas......
most gas stations now have 10 prct ethanol and those that don't cost more.........also Stabil now makes a new product to counteract this but it runs 2-3 times what there normal stabil does......
so either buy the blue stabil....or buy gas from a station that does not have ethanol in the gas and see if that helps....
Suzuki Bandit Owners - Whats the Maintenance like? Easy, Cheap? Breakdowns?
I am looking at a Bandit 600 97 - 2000, as its in my budget! Have loads left over to stick some new parts on it after purchase too. (Chain, Sprockets, Tyres if necessary, or some nice fairing pieces).
But long term, this is my second bike, moving up from a SUPER reliable Honda 125cc bike. Does the Suzuki have issues in this case? I will do basic maintenance, but I'm no mechanic (but I guess I can learn).
I figure parts are a dime a dozen as they are very popular bikes, for Streetfighter-ifingy|||Very easy to work on and very reliable|||Mines ten years old and had it from new, its done 30,000 miles and has never let me down, they are ultra reliable but obviously they need to be serviced but there is nothing that the average owner cant do.
Buy a genuine Suzuki workshop manual of e-bay and you wont go wrong. I fitted a scott oiler from new and am still on the original chain and sprockets, the exhaust is the original too. I ride my bike all year long so it isn't a summer only bike. This is a good bike to step up to from a small 125.|||oil and filter change every 3500 miles check the shims and buckets every 7000 miles change plugs once a year or every 7000 miles.
ULTRA reliable bike
Loads to give you in return, Under tuned and easily modified to give you extra BHP at little investment
Paint is a joke, thin and brittle but it is a budget bike. wash and polish to keep your investment high.
Avoid bikes already covered in bling as this indicates all that can be done has been done but not all that should have been if you get my drift.
750 GSXF engine in the oil cooled version is a direct fit into the 600 and is easy way to get a little more poke for little money
400 VVT version is cheaper to insure BUT is more powerful than a standard 600 but a bit of a challenge for home servicing so if you are coming from a 125 either the 250 or 400 VVT 4 cyl model is cheaper to insure but rare. 600 restricted is OK but get over your restriction and get those carbs opened up.
cheaper still is the DIVERSION 600 from yamaha same sort of budget bike and lots about
Welcome to the big bikes.
1200 is awsome 1250 has more GRUNT but the 1200 is the MUTTS NUTTS!
But long term, this is my second bike, moving up from a SUPER reliable Honda 125cc bike. Does the Suzuki have issues in this case? I will do basic maintenance, but I'm no mechanic (but I guess I can learn).
I figure parts are a dime a dozen as they are very popular bikes, for Streetfighter-ifingy|||Very easy to work on and very reliable|||Mines ten years old and had it from new, its done 30,000 miles and has never let me down, they are ultra reliable but obviously they need to be serviced but there is nothing that the average owner cant do.
Buy a genuine Suzuki workshop manual of e-bay and you wont go wrong. I fitted a scott oiler from new and am still on the original chain and sprockets, the exhaust is the original too. I ride my bike all year long so it isn't a summer only bike. This is a good bike to step up to from a small 125.|||oil and filter change every 3500 miles check the shims and buckets every 7000 miles change plugs once a year or every 7000 miles.
ULTRA reliable bike
Loads to give you in return, Under tuned and easily modified to give you extra BHP at little investment
Paint is a joke, thin and brittle but it is a budget bike. wash and polish to keep your investment high.
Avoid bikes already covered in bling as this indicates all that can be done has been done but not all that should have been if you get my drift.
750 GSXF engine in the oil cooled version is a direct fit into the 600 and is easy way to get a little more poke for little money
400 VVT version is cheaper to insure BUT is more powerful than a standard 600 but a bit of a challenge for home servicing so if you are coming from a 125 either the 250 or 400 VVT 4 cyl model is cheaper to insure but rare. 600 restricted is OK but get over your restriction and get those carbs opened up.
cheaper still is the DIVERSION 600 from yamaha same sort of budget bike and lots about
Welcome to the big bikes.
1200 is awsome 1250 has more GRUNT but the 1200 is the MUTTS NUTTS!
Would you buy a new Suzuki knowing this?
My brother and I bought 2 new bikes for a summer vacation. His 1200 Bandit leaked gas and ruined the motor before it got 2000 miles. We asked Suzuki to replace the motor so we could go on vacation. They said it鈥檚 to expensive and would cost $3000. After 4 months and the vacation gone they got the motor rebuilt at a cost of $3700. The dealer wanted to replace the motor but Suzuki squashed that. The gas stained cases and burnt exhaust pipes were not replaced. The bike got nicked and scratched all over from being apart for so long. It ran like crap and looked worse. We called Japan for nothing, and even wrote the US CEO all for nothing. We spent $15,000 for the bikes to get Fd. We spent our vacation hassling with Suzuki, and not one person there gave a F! Beware Suzuki鈥檚 warranty is not worth the paper it鈥檚 printed on! Buy one of their lemons are get Fd like we did!|||yes i would and still will. i have 5 (currnetly) suzuki's with out a problem. i have had only suzukis for the last 16 years now.
Susuki Bandit 600 SK1?
Hi Guys,
I'm new to this group and would like to discuss a few concerns regarding my Suzuki Bandit.
I've been doing a bit of research as to why my bandit doesn't have a petrol gauge and it seems post 2000 models seem to have them apart from mine! Could it be the SK1 model part? After googling 'Suzuki Bandit SK1' models I noticed that all the pictures included 600S and not like my naked Bandit model - am I missing something here?!!
Also.... (Sorry) is it normal for me to only travel 140-160 miles on a tank of petrol? It gets a nit annoying when you're traveling on the A140 on a friday morning and you discover that your bike is running out of petrol after only topping it up on the Monday..........
Thoughts anyone?|||They never made a naked bandit. I think yours is just missing the fairing and has different replacement gauges without the fuel gauge. It must have been crashed.
Reset your trip meter every time you fill up.
160 miles is 256klm which sounds about right for commuting.
I'm new to this group and would like to discuss a few concerns regarding my Suzuki Bandit.
I've been doing a bit of research as to why my bandit doesn't have a petrol gauge and it seems post 2000 models seem to have them apart from mine! Could it be the SK1 model part? After googling 'Suzuki Bandit SK1' models I noticed that all the pictures included 600S and not like my naked Bandit model - am I missing something here?!!
Also.... (Sorry) is it normal for me to only travel 140-160 miles on a tank of petrol? It gets a nit annoying when you're traveling on the A140 on a friday morning and you discover that your bike is running out of petrol after only topping it up on the Monday..........
Thoughts anyone?|||They never made a naked bandit. I think yours is just missing the fairing and has different replacement gauges without the fuel gauge. It must have been crashed.
Reset your trip meter every time you fill up.
160 miles is 256klm which sounds about right for commuting.
Susuki Bandit 600 SK1?
Hi Guys,
I'm new to this group and would like to discuss a few concerns regarding my Suzuki Bandit.
I've been doing a bit of research as to why my bandit doesn't have a petrol gauge and it seems post 2000 models seem to have them apart from mine! Could it be the SK1 model part? After googling 'Suzuki Bandit SK1' models I noticed that all the pictures included 600S and not like my naked Bandit model - am I missing something here?!!
Also.... (Sorry) is it normal for me to only travel 140-160 miles on a tank of petrol? It gets a nit annoying when you're traveling on the A140 on a friday morning and you discover that your bike is running out of petrol after only topping it up on the Monday..........
Thoughts anyone?|||You're in the boating section:-D :-D :-D
But here's the answer: Your older bike is carbureted. That also means you have a reserve fuel position on the petcock. You should normally be riding on the "ON" position. When you start feeling the engine surge and run out of gas you reach down and turn the valve to "RESERVE". This gives you maybe a gallon of fuel to get to the next gas station.
The newer bikes are mostly fuel injected these days, so there's no longer a manual fuel petcock valve. They have a LOW FUEL warning light or an actual gas gauge. Pay attention to this! Once a fuel injected bike is out of gas, it is OUT OF GAS! That means you push, coast or tow back to a gas station, or get a ride and bring some back to your bike in a container.
If you do run out and wind up getting some more fuel, turn the key to ON or RUN and give the fuel injection pump a 10 seconds or so to draw the new gas into the system before trying to start the bike.|||You are in the boating section, sorry.
I'm new to this group and would like to discuss a few concerns regarding my Suzuki Bandit.
I've been doing a bit of research as to why my bandit doesn't have a petrol gauge and it seems post 2000 models seem to have them apart from mine! Could it be the SK1 model part? After googling 'Suzuki Bandit SK1' models I noticed that all the pictures included 600S and not like my naked Bandit model - am I missing something here?!!
Also.... (Sorry) is it normal for me to only travel 140-160 miles on a tank of petrol? It gets a nit annoying when you're traveling on the A140 on a friday morning and you discover that your bike is running out of petrol after only topping it up on the Monday..........
Thoughts anyone?|||You're in the boating section:-D :-D :-D
But here's the answer: Your older bike is carbureted. That also means you have a reserve fuel position on the petcock. You should normally be riding on the "ON" position. When you start feeling the engine surge and run out of gas you reach down and turn the valve to "RESERVE". This gives you maybe a gallon of fuel to get to the next gas station.
The newer bikes are mostly fuel injected these days, so there's no longer a manual fuel petcock valve. They have a LOW FUEL warning light or an actual gas gauge. Pay attention to this! Once a fuel injected bike is out of gas, it is OUT OF GAS! That means you push, coast or tow back to a gas station, or get a ride and bring some back to your bike in a container.
If you do run out and wind up getting some more fuel, turn the key to ON or RUN and give the fuel injection pump a 10 seconds or so to draw the new gas into the system before trying to start the bike.|||You are in the boating section, sorry.
Suzuki bandit 600 any one have any advice?
Hi, Im restricted to 33bhp on the A2 licence at the minute and the bandit 600 is my favourite option as the insurance is cheap, the only issue is there seems to be none around my area and the ones that are have high mileage 30K-40K and tbh they sell around 1.5k, now my issue is there are bandit 600s with low miles such as 8k for 2k onwards but is it worth spending that sort of money on a bike (I need it for two years+) they are mint and have good history and are the same age as the others. The total cost of it all would be 2.1k-Bandit 600 550-Insurance TPTF (im 18) Restricton fitted (200) so about 3k. A high mileage would be about 1.5k-Bandit (200)- restriction 550-Insurance so around 2.2k which is more adviseable?|||First off, 30 to 40K isnt crap for an air cooled engine! Your goofy to think otherwise. That really isnt all that high of mileage at all. I have a 72 cb350 that has over 200K on it, still runs great to this day!
Buy what you can afford and what suits your needs! What you feel comfortable with. No one can tell you what you like, but I will say as much as I wouldnt think twice about buying a higher mileage bike to save a little $$$. Just make sure your tires are good and your brakes have good like left!|||Yeh, what Jim said, and check the chain an sprockets.
If they're knackered it'll cost you 拢80-拢100 depending.
Buy what you can afford and what suits your needs! What you feel comfortable with. No one can tell you what you like, but I will say as much as I wouldnt think twice about buying a higher mileage bike to save a little $$$. Just make sure your tires are good and your brakes have good like left!|||Yeh, what Jim said, and check the chain an sprockets.
If they're knackered it'll cost you 拢80-拢100 depending.
400cc bike under 拢1000?
i'm looking to get a 400cc 4stroke bike for when i pass my bike test. i am on a tight budget and am looking to get one for as cheap as possible, i reckon the max that i can go is 拢1000. i have narrowed the list down to: bandit 400, cbr400rr, zxr400, gsxr400, vfr400. i'm not to concerned about problems the bikes have because i can repair them myself. i just want to know what other people would get if it was their choice and why? thanks.|||You could try http://www.autotrader.co.uk/bikes|||100% zxr 400
i had one for my first bike try and get the newer 1998 %26gt; paint (the one with pink/purple on seat fairing)
they are as chunky as a 600 and are good for 140mph
ive got a k6 gsxr 600 now and still look at zxr's as i might get a little mess about bike.
all the others are stuck in the 80's unless u get a mint vfr but then ur looking 2500+
anyway hope u go for the zxr..... you'll thank me.|||you could get a CBR 600 for 拢1000 or less
there is one up in my neck of the woods and it is in mint condition|||get a used harley.|||my girlfriend just sold her bandit 400 before we left to go travelling and it was the business.
130mph, good mpg, bombproof suzuki, good accelleration. she sold it with 6 months mot and tax good to go for 600pounds with a helmet.
the zxr/gsxr/cbr are all very rare and thus expensive. you're talking about doing the work yourself... fair enough (that's what i do) but you havent seen the cost of parts yet have you? and those fairings and engines have been throttled and crashed by every 17 year old outside the chipshop. the vfr looks a bit dated.
you know you're limited to 33bhp right (assuming under 21) and all those bikes are way over so you will have to restrict them anyway if you want to be strictly 'legal'.
I did my test at 17 and cut all that crap, bought an 11yearold cbr600 for a grand and never restricted it. insurance third party only was 1300 though so keep it in mind.
didnt own a car and clocked 19,000 miles in the first year!!!! stopped by the police many a time and never a word was said other than 'is this 33 brake son?' 'yes sir' is the reply and always be respectful.
wear a decent helmet and clothing and you'll rarely be stopped (unless riding like a tool)
good luck and drive safe
i had one for my first bike try and get the newer 1998 %26gt; paint (the one with pink/purple on seat fairing)
they are as chunky as a 600 and are good for 140mph
ive got a k6 gsxr 600 now and still look at zxr's as i might get a little mess about bike.
all the others are stuck in the 80's unless u get a mint vfr but then ur looking 2500+
anyway hope u go for the zxr..... you'll thank me.|||you could get a CBR 600 for 拢1000 or less
there is one up in my neck of the woods and it is in mint condition|||get a used harley.|||my girlfriend just sold her bandit 400 before we left to go travelling and it was the business.
130mph, good mpg, bombproof suzuki, good accelleration. she sold it with 6 months mot and tax good to go for 600pounds with a helmet.
the zxr/gsxr/cbr are all very rare and thus expensive. you're talking about doing the work yourself... fair enough (that's what i do) but you havent seen the cost of parts yet have you? and those fairings and engines have been throttled and crashed by every 17 year old outside the chipshop. the vfr looks a bit dated.
you know you're limited to 33bhp right (assuming under 21) and all those bikes are way over so you will have to restrict them anyway if you want to be strictly 'legal'.
I did my test at 17 and cut all that crap, bought an 11yearold cbr600 for a grand and never restricted it. insurance third party only was 1300 though so keep it in mind.
didnt own a car and clocked 19,000 miles in the first year!!!! stopped by the police many a time and never a word was said other than 'is this 33 brake son?' 'yes sir' is the reply and always be respectful.
wear a decent helmet and clothing and you'll rarely be stopped (unless riding like a tool)
good luck and drive safe
Info on what amount of damage it takes to get an oldish motorcycle written off but also how do i re-buy it?
had an accident 3 days ago (1st one in 13 years) have been told the motorcyle (suzuki bandit 600 13 yrs old) is probably going to be written off by bike mates. Really only the forks are bent but the bike is bombproof and i want to keep it on the road as there have never been any probs whatsoever starts every day whatever the weather. Great bike! |||Due to its age and may be the millage, a new set of forks will be worth more then the bike.
Plus it will have to go to a main agent for fitment. That 拢30 per hour min.
As for buying it back, it will no doubt be classed as a 2 or 3 stage write off, so if the insurance firm allows it, you can buy it back.
The only trouble is , you will be riding a [ legal ] wrote off bike. Your insurance will go up, not just for the claim, but due to the bike been what we used to " Q Plates " [ ala kitcar style reg ]
It will still run on its own age related plate, but you will never be sell it, as anybody who does a HPI on the bike will see its class.
My advice, get the full market value of the bike, buy a newer one. Then also buy back your old bike and make a fantastic, cheap trackday bike.
All the bits you take off for the track, stick on ebay and re-coup at least 15 - 25 % of the whole buy back price.
Plus it will have to go to a main agent for fitment. That 拢30 per hour min.
As for buying it back, it will no doubt be classed as a 2 or 3 stage write off, so if the insurance firm allows it, you can buy it back.
The only trouble is , you will be riding a [ legal ] wrote off bike. Your insurance will go up, not just for the claim, but due to the bike been what we used to " Q Plates " [ ala kitcar style reg ]
It will still run on its own age related plate, but you will never be sell it, as anybody who does a HPI on the bike will see its class.
My advice, get the full market value of the bike, buy a newer one. Then also buy back your old bike and make a fantastic, cheap trackday bike.
All the bits you take off for the track, stick on ebay and re-coup at least 15 - 25 % of the whole buy back price.
Suzuki Bandit Question!?
Hi people, i have a good deal on buying a used Suzuki Bandit 250cc. But since i heard few bad stuff about the bike like carburetor problem etc... I am still thinking whether to go for it or not. So i have few questions under the sleeve to ask....! I hope you riders won't mind helping me out.
What is the average fuel economy? You can let me know yours doesn't matter what it is.... I was hoping it will do something like 30 to 35 Kilometers per liter of petrol according to the owner.
What type of fuel should i pump for this? i have access to 90 Octane, 92 Octane and 95 Octane Unleaded Petrol
Truth about the carburetor problem if one ever exists internationally?
Thanks a million fellas, may all you be blessed with endless happy safe miles.....|||I owned a Suzuki Bandit 1200cc. I got 40 mpg, I would think a 250cc should get twice that. A lot always depends on how you ride. I have owned older Suzuki 250 dirt and in the carb is a tiny low idle jet that will plug with gum if you leave gas setting for long periods of time. A very fine tip cleaner and good eye sight will fix this and they run fine if you keep running them. Mine always seem to like the higher octane. I had bought a 175 from a guy when it would not stay running. got a good deal. 30 mins after getting it home it ran like new.|||I have heard of carb issues, but that is usually due to people not winterizing it properly. You have to stabilize the fuel if the bike will be sitting for more than a couple of weeks. The ethanol in the gas these days gums up the carbs and the fuel system.|||The only problem i'm aware of is carb icing due to the high velocity of air through the carbs:
this isn't really a problem, just a HICCUP.
can you tell us what you've been told.... or is it just yet another urban myth " don't by that it as carb problems!" Type report.....
the bike was one of the first ventures in to small capacity 4cyl 4strokes by the japanese ( been here already haven't we)in the domestic market.
In moderate use expect 50-60 mpg remember it wasn't an eco commuter but a bid for a lightweight performance allrounder and was built to impress
What is the average fuel economy? You can let me know yours doesn't matter what it is.... I was hoping it will do something like 30 to 35 Kilometers per liter of petrol according to the owner.
What type of fuel should i pump for this? i have access to 90 Octane, 92 Octane and 95 Octane Unleaded Petrol
Truth about the carburetor problem if one ever exists internationally?
Thanks a million fellas, may all you be blessed with endless happy safe miles.....|||I owned a Suzuki Bandit 1200cc. I got 40 mpg, I would think a 250cc should get twice that. A lot always depends on how you ride. I have owned older Suzuki 250 dirt and in the carb is a tiny low idle jet that will plug with gum if you leave gas setting for long periods of time. A very fine tip cleaner and good eye sight will fix this and they run fine if you keep running them. Mine always seem to like the higher octane. I had bought a 175 from a guy when it would not stay running. got a good deal. 30 mins after getting it home it ran like new.|||I have heard of carb issues, but that is usually due to people not winterizing it properly. You have to stabilize the fuel if the bike will be sitting for more than a couple of weeks. The ethanol in the gas these days gums up the carbs and the fuel system.|||The only problem i'm aware of is carb icing due to the high velocity of air through the carbs:
this isn't really a problem, just a HICCUP.
can you tell us what you've been told.... or is it just yet another urban myth " don't by that it as carb problems!" Type report.....
the bike was one of the first ventures in to small capacity 4cyl 4strokes by the japanese ( been here already haven't we)in the domestic market.
In moderate use expect 50-60 mpg remember it wasn't an eco commuter but a bid for a lightweight performance allrounder and was built to impress
Need a bike?
hi folks i need a bike that will do 300 miles a week. i have a full liecence and wont go lower than a 600... n dont want a bandit or fazer,,, any idears thanks|||My suggestion is to stay from cruisers. Foot forward controls not comfortable for the long haul IMO.
For your consideration.
Suzuki 650 or 1000 V-Strom. Very reliable machines. Good power. They have been in production for many years. They have good suspension, windshield, available hard or soft bags, and a large network of riders. The 650 has carbs, the 1000 is fuel injected. Good lights. Depending where you live, I know the 1000 has enough extra charging capacity to run heated riding gear.
Another bike to look at is the Kawasaki Concours. This sport touring bike has been around for over 20 years. This bike would be a great commuter machine. One nice feature of the Concours is shaft drive. The Suzukis are chain driven. Again, there is a lot of aftermarket equipment available and a wealth of knowledge concerning the maintenance and operation of the Concours.
One nice feature I enjoy on my Gold Wing is cruise control. Set it and the bike maintains a steady speed just like a car. Good luck and be safe out there.|||ebay|||hello. get your self a cruiser 800cc vn classic good all rounder and a smooth ride to get you to a/b with ease.|||Ducati monster, or cajeva rapter. (not sure of spelling, there!)|||I have a Hyosung GV 650. Its a very sexy sports cruiser based around a Suzuki SV650 engine.
I did a lot of research before I bought it, and for me it was the best value for money bike on the market. There are lots of good reviews in the big bike papers/mags.
You can see these bikes on the prideinwhatyouride website, there are plenty of women riders, and lots of photos.
I find it easy and comfortable to ride, economical, and a real head turner.
I hope this helps, and maybe see you on the website one day.
I wouldn't swap it for anything, unless of course they bring out a 1200cc version, and I may be tempted.|||Honda Interceptor
800 cc's state of the art v tech engine
do everything type of bike
most reliable bike anybody could get
very comfortable, easy to ride and handle
can be used as a cross country touring bike
fast enough as a 1000 cc crotch rocket, or can go at a comfortable normal highway speed|||If you're talking about a first bike, you don't want something too big and heavy, but with the weekly mileage you have planned you don't want something to small either. 500-750cc is about right.
If it's your first bike you don't want anything too new. You're going to be hard on your first bike. You'll abuse the clutch. You might drop it once or twice in very minor mishaps. If you buy a bike a few years old, maybe with some minor scratches on it already, you can sell it after a year for about what you paid for it. By that time you'll have more skills and a better idea of what you want.
Stay away from anything too sporty. Modern sportbikes are deadly serious single-purpose tools. They are very uncomfortable and twitchy. It's really a thrill to pilot one of these machines down a twisty mountain road but they are not really good for general transportation.
But there are bikes that are 'sporty' but not real 'sport bikes', like the Kawasaki Ninja. They -look- like sport bikes but don't have the extreme seating position, the tiny, hard seat, or the almost non-existant shocks.
If you really want the bike just for transportation, a cruiser might be your best bet. They are generally the most comfortable bikes, and also the easiest to ride and to control. Sadly they all seem 'overstyled' to me these days.
As for models, well just about anything Japanese is good these days. I have a preference for Honda, but that's just me.
If you are just starting out, please remember that 50% of motorcycle accidents and fatalities happen in the first year of riding. Keep this in mind while riding and you'll be fine. I have been riding since the Johnson administration (Lyndon, not Andrew) and I really believe it's only my paranoia that's kept me safe.|||suzuki sv650 should do the trick.|||what i woud say is you need to research about the bike your thinking of buying, look through the Used Bike GUide as it has a bit in the back that gives a breaf review and pricing of many bikes.
Then once you have a hit list, you need to find out the faults with them.... who want to travel 300 miles on a bike that is no good in the rain.
Finally the test ride.. take it on a good long test ride, your not just testing the bike to make sure its good, your trying to find up if it will live up to your real needs.
Myself i have a 1992 Kawasaki GT550, the only reason i wouldnt recomend one, is because Kawasaki no longer produced the bike after about 1997(although models were still sold until 2003 ish). Its looks are stagnet, but less ugly than a BMW boxer..in my opinion.
But i bought it as it has proven reliability, reasonable handling and fair comfort, in fact i would say its like a comfy sofa compaired to an SV650!.... The engine will do at least 125,000 if not more if looked after. Mine i have put a new camchain in it at 80,000. I see my GT as an entry level tourer that wasnt really developed much above the first one that was made in 1983!.
If your looking for a bike to do long mileage you want something that isnt gona be a work out, like a super or hyper sports bike....as you will get more fatigued being huntched up, bent back, or a seat the side of a garden trowel with a thin whisp of foam on it.
I would be looking for smooth exceleration, sports bikes can be a bit of a pig doing town work... as they are designed for speed.
Factory customs and crusiers are a personal choice but i find them like rowing a boat when nipping through town/city traffic... things feel remote.. you move your arms more and fell like a monkey hanging onto the bars (ape hangers comes to mind)
For your consideration.
Suzuki 650 or 1000 V-Strom. Very reliable machines. Good power. They have been in production for many years. They have good suspension, windshield, available hard or soft bags, and a large network of riders. The 650 has carbs, the 1000 is fuel injected. Good lights. Depending where you live, I know the 1000 has enough extra charging capacity to run heated riding gear.
Another bike to look at is the Kawasaki Concours. This sport touring bike has been around for over 20 years. This bike would be a great commuter machine. One nice feature of the Concours is shaft drive. The Suzukis are chain driven. Again, there is a lot of aftermarket equipment available and a wealth of knowledge concerning the maintenance and operation of the Concours.
One nice feature I enjoy on my Gold Wing is cruise control. Set it and the bike maintains a steady speed just like a car. Good luck and be safe out there.|||ebay|||hello. get your self a cruiser 800cc vn classic good all rounder and a smooth ride to get you to a/b with ease.|||Ducati monster, or cajeva rapter. (not sure of spelling, there!)|||I have a Hyosung GV 650. Its a very sexy sports cruiser based around a Suzuki SV650 engine.
I did a lot of research before I bought it, and for me it was the best value for money bike on the market. There are lots of good reviews in the big bike papers/mags.
You can see these bikes on the prideinwhatyouride website, there are plenty of women riders, and lots of photos.
I find it easy and comfortable to ride, economical, and a real head turner.
I hope this helps, and maybe see you on the website one day.
I wouldn't swap it for anything, unless of course they bring out a 1200cc version, and I may be tempted.|||Honda Interceptor
800 cc's state of the art v tech engine
do everything type of bike
most reliable bike anybody could get
very comfortable, easy to ride and handle
can be used as a cross country touring bike
fast enough as a 1000 cc crotch rocket, or can go at a comfortable normal highway speed|||If you're talking about a first bike, you don't want something too big and heavy, but with the weekly mileage you have planned you don't want something to small either. 500-750cc is about right.
If it's your first bike you don't want anything too new. You're going to be hard on your first bike. You'll abuse the clutch. You might drop it once or twice in very minor mishaps. If you buy a bike a few years old, maybe with some minor scratches on it already, you can sell it after a year for about what you paid for it. By that time you'll have more skills and a better idea of what you want.
Stay away from anything too sporty. Modern sportbikes are deadly serious single-purpose tools. They are very uncomfortable and twitchy. It's really a thrill to pilot one of these machines down a twisty mountain road but they are not really good for general transportation.
But there are bikes that are 'sporty' but not real 'sport bikes', like the Kawasaki Ninja. They -look- like sport bikes but don't have the extreme seating position, the tiny, hard seat, or the almost non-existant shocks.
If you really want the bike just for transportation, a cruiser might be your best bet. They are generally the most comfortable bikes, and also the easiest to ride and to control. Sadly they all seem 'overstyled' to me these days.
As for models, well just about anything Japanese is good these days. I have a preference for Honda, but that's just me.
If you are just starting out, please remember that 50% of motorcycle accidents and fatalities happen in the first year of riding. Keep this in mind while riding and you'll be fine. I have been riding since the Johnson administration (Lyndon, not Andrew) and I really believe it's only my paranoia that's kept me safe.|||suzuki sv650 should do the trick.|||what i woud say is you need to research about the bike your thinking of buying, look through the Used Bike GUide as it has a bit in the back that gives a breaf review and pricing of many bikes.
Then once you have a hit list, you need to find out the faults with them.... who want to travel 300 miles on a bike that is no good in the rain.
Finally the test ride.. take it on a good long test ride, your not just testing the bike to make sure its good, your trying to find up if it will live up to your real needs.
Myself i have a 1992 Kawasaki GT550, the only reason i wouldnt recomend one, is because Kawasaki no longer produced the bike after about 1997(although models were still sold until 2003 ish). Its looks are stagnet, but less ugly than a BMW boxer..in my opinion.
But i bought it as it has proven reliability, reasonable handling and fair comfort, in fact i would say its like a comfy sofa compaired to an SV650!.... The engine will do at least 125,000 if not more if looked after. Mine i have put a new camchain in it at 80,000. I see my GT as an entry level tourer that wasnt really developed much above the first one that was made in 1983!.
If your looking for a bike to do long mileage you want something that isnt gona be a work out, like a super or hyper sports bike....as you will get more fatigued being huntched up, bent back, or a seat the side of a garden trowel with a thin whisp of foam on it.
I would be looking for smooth exceleration, sports bikes can be a bit of a pig doing town work... as they are designed for speed.
Factory customs and crusiers are a personal choice but i find them like rowing a boat when nipping through town/city traffic... things feel remote.. you move your arms more and fell like a monkey hanging onto the bars (ape hangers comes to mind)
Will Synthetic Shell Rotella 5W-40 be OK in my Suzuki Bandit 600s?
The Oil cap on my bike calls for 10W-40.
Will Synthetic 5W-40 be OK in my bike year all year 'round?
By the way, I'm the most concerned about not harming my engine above anything else.
Thanks!|||It'll be OK. Diesel specific oils don't use friction modifiers and that's the stuff that will cause problems with a wet type clutch. Basically any oil that isn't rated as an energy conservation oil will work. The problem with these oils as opposed to a motorcycle specific additive package oil is the length of service that they can tolerate doing something they were never designed to do. Lubricating and protecting a multitude of surfaces while also being subjected to the effects of meshing gears, wet clutches and extreme temperature swings. To be safe planning on changing your oil at half the recommended manufacturers mileage interval.
That little fact escaped the guys at M/C Consumer News because they didn't have any way of testing the long term effectiveness in a real world working scenario. Actually, many of the 'facts' found in that article have come under fire from many fronts and has lost most of it's credibility.|||I was under the impression that Rotella was a diesel rated oil (sorry if I'm wrong). Probably alot of people are going to write and tell you to use only motorcycle rated oil, believe me it won't make any difference. Regarding the clutch, synthetic probably will not make it slip. Motorcycle cycle consumer news investigated use of synthetic oils regarding clutch slippage and found that it was no problem|||if it has a wet clutch i sure as hell wouldnt use synthetic ... use the recommended i would think would be best ..|||use a bike oil ONLY!!!!!!! Bike oil is formulated with special ingredients for your wet clutch. It also has the ability to reduce foaming from the gears which if it happens can cause the oil pump not to pick it up and circulate the oil properly. The manufacturer spends plenty on research if they thought it would be fine to run a car oil they would save their money
I run a full synthetic in all my bikes and they all have a wet clutch. Every race team uses a synthetic for the Superior protection
I use castrol full syn. but all of the major brands are fine
Spectro
motul
redline
amsoil
maxxim
honda
suzuki
kawi
what ever brand you chose just stick to it|||The best SAFE advice is to use an oil specifically designed for motorcycles and wet clutches. Something tells me that Rotella is not:
Shell ROTELLA T Multigrade SAE 15W-40 with Advanced Soot Control is Shell鈥檚 highest quality mixed-fleet heavy-duty engine oil. It meets the warranty and service requirements of virtually all diesel and gasoline engine manufacturers that recommend a multigrade oil. Recommended especially for all on-highway service applications, it may also be recommended for off-highway applications, especially where all-season use is desired. ROTELLA T Multigrade exceeds the requirements of both cleaner-burning new engines and earlier models. Shell鈥檚 unique chemistry helps ensure that the oil stays in grade in all seasons and under all types of loads.
Will Synthetic 5W-40 be OK in my bike year all year 'round?
By the way, I'm the most concerned about not harming my engine above anything else.
Thanks!|||It'll be OK. Diesel specific oils don't use friction modifiers and that's the stuff that will cause problems with a wet type clutch. Basically any oil that isn't rated as an energy conservation oil will work. The problem with these oils as opposed to a motorcycle specific additive package oil is the length of service that they can tolerate doing something they were never designed to do. Lubricating and protecting a multitude of surfaces while also being subjected to the effects of meshing gears, wet clutches and extreme temperature swings. To be safe planning on changing your oil at half the recommended manufacturers mileage interval.
That little fact escaped the guys at M/C Consumer News because they didn't have any way of testing the long term effectiveness in a real world working scenario. Actually, many of the 'facts' found in that article have come under fire from many fronts and has lost most of it's credibility.|||I was under the impression that Rotella was a diesel rated oil (sorry if I'm wrong). Probably alot of people are going to write and tell you to use only motorcycle rated oil, believe me it won't make any difference. Regarding the clutch, synthetic probably will not make it slip. Motorcycle cycle consumer news investigated use of synthetic oils regarding clutch slippage and found that it was no problem|||if it has a wet clutch i sure as hell wouldnt use synthetic ... use the recommended i would think would be best ..|||use a bike oil ONLY!!!!!!! Bike oil is formulated with special ingredients for your wet clutch. It also has the ability to reduce foaming from the gears which if it happens can cause the oil pump not to pick it up and circulate the oil properly. The manufacturer spends plenty on research if they thought it would be fine to run a car oil they would save their money
I run a full synthetic in all my bikes and they all have a wet clutch. Every race team uses a synthetic for the Superior protection
I use castrol full syn. but all of the major brands are fine
Spectro
motul
redline
amsoil
maxxim
honda
suzuki
kawi
what ever brand you chose just stick to it|||The best SAFE advice is to use an oil specifically designed for motorcycles and wet clutches. Something tells me that Rotella is not:
Shell ROTELLA T Multigrade SAE 15W-40 with Advanced Soot Control is Shell鈥檚 highest quality mixed-fleet heavy-duty engine oil. It meets the warranty and service requirements of virtually all diesel and gasoline engine manufacturers that recommend a multigrade oil. Recommended especially for all on-highway service applications, it may also be recommended for off-highway applications, especially where all-season use is desired. ROTELLA T Multigrade exceeds the requirements of both cleaner-burning new engines and earlier models. Shell鈥檚 unique chemistry helps ensure that the oil stays in grade in all seasons and under all types of loads.
I've seriously been debating this for two years- Suzuki Bandit 1250S or V-strom 1000?
I've almost bought a new bike for two years. Finally I'm sick of not buying because I keep flip-flopping, and thinking about it, so which should I go with, the bandit 1250s or the Vstrom?
price is identical. Bandit has more power, vstroms a dual sport. Bandits been rated a best buy, and is a very well designed bike, but whens the last time you saw a used vstrom for sale? The owners love them. My dealer will go lower on the bandit, so I'm guessing dealer cost is lower. Both have their pluses and minuses. Mainly I'll just drive short routes through town, occasionally go for several hour trips. I'm a conservative rider now that I'm getting older, but some of my buddies have some pretty quick rides, and run them at the tracks. I don't anymore. I know I'm not riding a lot anymore either, so I'll probably hold onto the bike for a number of years.
I'm 6'9", 330 lbs (semipro football lineman), it will be my fifth bike.
Any input is appreciated!|||I personally like the bandit by just a tad over the vstrom. However for your size I'd say go with the vstrom. I think you'd be much more comfortable on it.|||Two years is long enough, actually, how could you wait so long?
I say buy the V-Strom, it is roomier, more versatile and one hell of a lot more fun than a bandit, which you will tire of as it is an outdated standard.
I have a BMW R1100GS, it is a little on the heavy side, but I love it all the same. Comfort on longer rides and a blast on the short ones.|||I have no experience with either bike.
A respected mechanic told me that the 650 V Strom is a much better bike than the 1000 is. Friends who ride large power cruisers also own the Bandit as a twistie bike and they have a high opinion of it.|||For high speed touring on good roads the Bandit is the choice.
For anything else, the VStrom is the choice, including commuting due to the high riding position and Vtwin.|||V-Strom should be far more comfortable for someone your size.|||Go with the Vstrom..More low and mid range torque|||V Strom 1000 is a GREAT bike, perfect bike for a tall rider, its more comfortable for the long riding trips.
Many people will tell you that the V Strom 650 and 1000 are equal in power, NOT TRUE, The 1000 is a big difference and a much better bike than the 650.
The V Strom 1000 is a touring bike up there with the Honda ST1300, and Gold Wing.
The only bad things about the V Strom is the loud top end engine noise and the windshield doesn't work in any of the 3 positions, but there are better aftermarket windshields you can get for it, and make sure you get the center stand option with the bike
price is identical. Bandit has more power, vstroms a dual sport. Bandits been rated a best buy, and is a very well designed bike, but whens the last time you saw a used vstrom for sale? The owners love them. My dealer will go lower on the bandit, so I'm guessing dealer cost is lower. Both have their pluses and minuses. Mainly I'll just drive short routes through town, occasionally go for several hour trips. I'm a conservative rider now that I'm getting older, but some of my buddies have some pretty quick rides, and run them at the tracks. I don't anymore. I know I'm not riding a lot anymore either, so I'll probably hold onto the bike for a number of years.
I'm 6'9", 330 lbs (semipro football lineman), it will be my fifth bike.
Any input is appreciated!|||I personally like the bandit by just a tad over the vstrom. However for your size I'd say go with the vstrom. I think you'd be much more comfortable on it.|||Two years is long enough, actually, how could you wait so long?
I say buy the V-Strom, it is roomier, more versatile and one hell of a lot more fun than a bandit, which you will tire of as it is an outdated standard.
I have a BMW R1100GS, it is a little on the heavy side, but I love it all the same. Comfort on longer rides and a blast on the short ones.|||I have no experience with either bike.
A respected mechanic told me that the 650 V Strom is a much better bike than the 1000 is. Friends who ride large power cruisers also own the Bandit as a twistie bike and they have a high opinion of it.|||For high speed touring on good roads the Bandit is the choice.
For anything else, the VStrom is the choice, including commuting due to the high riding position and Vtwin.|||V-Strom should be far more comfortable for someone your size.|||Go with the Vstrom..More low and mid range torque|||V Strom 1000 is a GREAT bike, perfect bike for a tall rider, its more comfortable for the long riding trips.
Many people will tell you that the V Strom 650 and 1000 are equal in power, NOT TRUE, The 1000 is a big difference and a much better bike than the 650.
The V Strom 1000 is a touring bike up there with the Honda ST1300, and Gold Wing.
The only bad things about the V Strom is the loud top end engine noise and the windshield doesn't work in any of the 3 positions, but there are better aftermarket windshields you can get for it, and make sure you get the center stand option with the bike
Carbs and valve timings bandit 600 1998?
What would carb ballancing and valve timing servicing do to my bike.
I have a quote of 拢350 in the UK Midlands area. Is this reasonable.
My haynes said i should have had it done by now.|||The only time you would have to adjust valve timing is if the cam chain had been remover for some reason, or vernier cam gears had been fitted to tweak the cams a little.
Valve clearances (the correct name for tappets) should be checked every 16,000 miles on the 600 Bandit. Mine were fine at both the 16,000 and 32,000 services, but every engines different. It basically ensures your valves open and close at their optimum efficiency and is worth checking. Adjust them is a bit tedious with the screw/lock-nut combination the Bandit has, so patience is the ultimate tool!
Crab balancing should be done after the valve clearances to ensure each cylinder is getting the same gulp of air/fuel as each other which promotes smoother running.
I have a quote of 拢350 in the UK Midlands area. Is this reasonable.
My haynes said i should have had it done by now.|||The only time you would have to adjust valve timing is if the cam chain had been remover for some reason, or vernier cam gears had been fitted to tweak the cams a little.
Valve clearances (the correct name for tappets) should be checked every 16,000 miles on the 600 Bandit. Mine were fine at both the 16,000 and 32,000 services, but every engines different. It basically ensures your valves open and close at their optimum efficiency and is worth checking. Adjust them is a bit tedious with the screw/lock-nut combination the Bandit has, so patience is the ultimate tool!
Crab balancing should be done after the valve clearances to ensure each cylinder is getting the same gulp of air/fuel as each other which promotes smoother running.
69 yamaha ct 1 magneto puller?
where can i find a magneto puller for my bike i tried ebay and bike bandit but could not find one is there any puller that anyone knows about that would work? thanks for your help trying to learn.|||Brian,,that particular puller is "almost universal" for Jap Bikes,,,especially Older ones.
The Size is 27mm x 1mm Left Hand Thread.
Any motorcycle shop You have Locally should have them at a reasonable price,,,,$10 or so.
Or you can certainly mail-order them.
Ebay has "A Million of 'em",,,but they're sorta camoflauged by being listed by Bike Model.
...........................
Here's one example,,,the description includes a list of a FEW of the models it fits.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-HO鈥?/a>
..............................
Here's Bike Bandit's
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/9331
Parts Unlimited Flywheel/Rotor Pullers 27mm x 1.0, left-hand, male
YOUR PRICE $12.55
The Size is 27mm x 1mm Left Hand Thread.
Any motorcycle shop You have Locally should have them at a reasonable price,,,,$10 or so.
Or you can certainly mail-order them.
Ebay has "A Million of 'em",,,but they're sorta camoflauged by being listed by Bike Model.
...........................
Here's one example,,,the description includes a list of a FEW of the models it fits.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-HO鈥?/a>
..............................
Here's Bike Bandit's
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/9331
Parts Unlimited Flywheel/Rotor Pullers 27mm x 1.0, left-hand, male
YOUR PRICE $12.55
Kawasaki Z1000 or Suzuki Bandit 1250? others in class?
Just wanted some opinions on these 2 bikes and/or whatever else falls in this catergory.
All opinions are appreciated thanks.|||BMW R 1100 GS is another similar.
both the Z1000 and the bandit are good, dependable bikes. just depends on what fits you best and is most comfortable for you and your riding style.
All opinions are appreciated thanks.|||BMW R 1100 GS is another similar.
both the Z1000 and the bandit are good, dependable bikes. just depends on what fits you best and is most comfortable for you and your riding style.
Does the gas take need to be taken off my motorcycle in order to change the air filter?
The bike is a 1999 Suzuki Bandit 1200s|||i dont know that perticle bike but my best bet is no|||Yes it does.. then, when removed, remove the air filter housing screws. Make sure you dont drop anything down the carburetors! 99 bandit is a great bike too!|||another good reason to remove the gas is that high octane gas can spill on your paint job and if a tank is sitting wrong for a little bit, the paint will be totally screwed.
Bandit 600 GSF vs XJ600N; which should i buy?
i use to own an Diversion faired but am now lokking to upgrade to a better looking fully polished naked bike. Any views on them both?
I dont know if there is much difference between the 2 but i can see the xjn has 60bhp and the bandit 78bhp.
My diversion 600 i had before use to be nippy and especially when i got her carbs cleaned and ballanced, but will i get more thril and performance from the bandit 600?
1 year has passed since i got my full bike licence, and the divi was cool, but now i need some fun and especially something i wont get bored of for a few years.
Cheers bikers|||DIVVY,
cheaper to maintain easier to service at home requires few specialized tools.
Cheaper to buy, more original un touched models on the market spares easily available, few mods or aftermarket bolt-ons. relatively staid ride but a performance commuter in the 0-40 mph bracket..
BANDIT
Can be costly to maintain
Badly maintained bike drink fuel like anything.
Un touched examples few and far between, many have been seriously modded
Spares (those that don't wear out ) are cheap and easy to come by.
ONE OF THE MOST STOLEN BIKES IN THE UK
In standard form brakes and suspension adequate. If modified seek to sort out brakes and preload.. otherwise it will handle like a mule stung by a hornet.
UNBELIEVABLE horsepower available on a fully stacked engine.. Engine is relatively bullet proof
Large range of alternative engines will fit the un modified frame, however frame will need bracing to take a fire breathing 750 GSXR oil boiler... AND fit a braced swing arm.|||bandit....|||The bandit is more tunable, has a bigger support network (and lots more people specialise in bandits)
Is way more fun to ride, the divvy, though a good starter and commuter bike is ultimately bland compared to a bandit.
Both were budget bikes but the suzuki is better built.|||go down the triumph rout i did never looked back|||Triumph street triple sounds like the bike for you!675cc,well balanced,beats all the opposition in the same capacity class.For build quality and reliability,have a Honda hornet,but hey..buy british %26amp; have fun.
P.s.Bandits are bullet proof,but go with your heart!
I dont know if there is much difference between the 2 but i can see the xjn has 60bhp and the bandit 78bhp.
My diversion 600 i had before use to be nippy and especially when i got her carbs cleaned and ballanced, but will i get more thril and performance from the bandit 600?
1 year has passed since i got my full bike licence, and the divi was cool, but now i need some fun and especially something i wont get bored of for a few years.
Cheers bikers|||DIVVY,
cheaper to maintain easier to service at home requires few specialized tools.
Cheaper to buy, more original un touched models on the market spares easily available, few mods or aftermarket bolt-ons. relatively staid ride but a performance commuter in the 0-40 mph bracket..
BANDIT
Can be costly to maintain
Badly maintained bike drink fuel like anything.
Un touched examples few and far between, many have been seriously modded
Spares (those that don't wear out ) are cheap and easy to come by.
ONE OF THE MOST STOLEN BIKES IN THE UK
In standard form brakes and suspension adequate. If modified seek to sort out brakes and preload.. otherwise it will handle like a mule stung by a hornet.
UNBELIEVABLE horsepower available on a fully stacked engine.. Engine is relatively bullet proof
Large range of alternative engines will fit the un modified frame, however frame will need bracing to take a fire breathing 750 GSXR oil boiler... AND fit a braced swing arm.|||bandit....|||The bandit is more tunable, has a bigger support network (and lots more people specialise in bandits)
Is way more fun to ride, the divvy, though a good starter and commuter bike is ultimately bland compared to a bandit.
Both were budget bikes but the suzuki is better built.|||go down the triumph rout i did never looked back|||Triumph street triple sounds like the bike for you!675cc,well balanced,beats all the opposition in the same capacity class.For build quality and reliability,have a Honda hornet,but hey..buy british %26amp; have fun.
P.s.Bandits are bullet proof,but go with your heart!
First bike question....?
I'm 30 years old, 6'3", about 250, and I'm in the market for a sport bike. I've been researching the whole 'motorcycle/sportbike' thing for quite some time now, so I know about every thing I need to do first. I've looked at all kinds of motorcyles and I'm completly set on getting a sportbike style. I know about the proper gear I need to wear, the MSF course I need to take, and the need for a used first bike. I've looked at several first bikes, and have sat on only one, so far. The bike I sat on was a Ninja 500r. To me it felt very small. Is that normal for a 'big' guy? With all the research I've done I've come down to a few used models that I'm seriously considering: the Yamaha Seca II XJ600, the Suzuki GS500, Suzuki Bandit 600, Suzuki SV650, Suzuki Katana 600, and the Kawasaki ZR-7. My question is for any serious sportbike enthusiast. Anyone with personal experience with these models would be helpful. Thanks.|||Whew! Okay, most of the bikes you're looking at are 'sport-commuters'. Don't mean that to sound disparaging- and it isn't- any of there bikes is well fast and a well ridden one could see off many a poser on their big sportsbike.
First, decide whether you want a twin or a four- this neatly cuts the list in half. The Kawa ER500 and Suzuki GS500 are pretty basic bikes with rather old parallel twin cylinder engines: not bad bikes, but not as powerful or sophisticated as the SV- a much more modern design. The Kwak and GS have been dressed up over the years but underneath they are close relations of the late 1980s GS500E and GPZ500S: solid bikes, but be aware.
The Yamaha Seca is a similar revamp of the old XJ600- same provisos, but it's an air-cooled 4: 4s are smoother and more free-revving than twins, but some people don't like the 'buzzy' nature of them, or the need to change gear more often. The Bandit is similar- a new for the 1990s design but using an old engine (GSX600F) and tube frame. The ZR7 is also in this class and is certainly a 'big' bike: you might appreciate the extra punch of the 750 but you will have to show it some respect as a learner. It is a more modern design than the others, SV aside.
Any of these bikes will serve you well and do anything, and cost little to maintain- which is why they still sell them. They are no frills bikes but they are still very capable and you won't have to pay for servicing of expensive gizmos whose benefit you never appreciate.
The SV650 is lighter, faster, and makes more power. It's suspension will be a little better and its frame a LOT stiffer: so when you can ride the others to their limits (which will take a while), the SV would still have more to teach you. But it will need more maintenance, particularly chains. And they're quite small. The ZR7 is quite close in terms of technology and value, but the others are quite old basic designs and you should pay less for them.
Get the one you feel comfortable on, and buy the bike in best condition, with the lowest miles.
Good luck and have fun riding.|||None of those are sportbikes.|||You definitely have the right attitude going into this venture. The MSF course is worth the price of admission. And the gear could save you a lot of road rash later.
But coming from a guy whose 6'2", about 225, I think you should consider something a little larger. You will feel like a giant on a minibike on the 500's. A larger ride may look intimidating at first, but as you become more comfortable riding on highways, in traffic, or wherever, the bigger bike will feel more solid under a big fella.
As far as cc's go, any of the bikes will move you. And any of them could kill someone who rides like an idiot. But as you're experience grows, you may want a bike that can grow with you. For not much more dough, you could go with a Katana 750. And from someone whose first bike was a Katana 750, you will quickly get past the rookie nervousness and still have room to have fun. It weighs more (the better part of 500 lbs) so it feels solid under you. But not too heavy to handle. The ZR-7 would also be another bike that you could grow into.
As long as you remember to respect the power (and it doesn't take anything close to Busa power to throw you) and don't rush you're learning curve, you'll enjoy years of riding fun.
First, decide whether you want a twin or a four- this neatly cuts the list in half. The Kawa ER500 and Suzuki GS500 are pretty basic bikes with rather old parallel twin cylinder engines: not bad bikes, but not as powerful or sophisticated as the SV- a much more modern design. The Kwak and GS have been dressed up over the years but underneath they are close relations of the late 1980s GS500E and GPZ500S: solid bikes, but be aware.
The Yamaha Seca is a similar revamp of the old XJ600- same provisos, but it's an air-cooled 4: 4s are smoother and more free-revving than twins, but some people don't like the 'buzzy' nature of them, or the need to change gear more often. The Bandit is similar- a new for the 1990s design but using an old engine (GSX600F) and tube frame. The ZR7 is also in this class and is certainly a 'big' bike: you might appreciate the extra punch of the 750 but you will have to show it some respect as a learner. It is a more modern design than the others, SV aside.
Any of these bikes will serve you well and do anything, and cost little to maintain- which is why they still sell them. They are no frills bikes but they are still very capable and you won't have to pay for servicing of expensive gizmos whose benefit you never appreciate.
The SV650 is lighter, faster, and makes more power. It's suspension will be a little better and its frame a LOT stiffer: so when you can ride the others to their limits (which will take a while), the SV would still have more to teach you. But it will need more maintenance, particularly chains. And they're quite small. The ZR7 is quite close in terms of technology and value, but the others are quite old basic designs and you should pay less for them.
Get the one you feel comfortable on, and buy the bike in best condition, with the lowest miles.
Good luck and have fun riding.|||None of those are sportbikes.|||You definitely have the right attitude going into this venture. The MSF course is worth the price of admission. And the gear could save you a lot of road rash later.
But coming from a guy whose 6'2", about 225, I think you should consider something a little larger. You will feel like a giant on a minibike on the 500's. A larger ride may look intimidating at first, but as you become more comfortable riding on highways, in traffic, or wherever, the bigger bike will feel more solid under a big fella.
As far as cc's go, any of the bikes will move you. And any of them could kill someone who rides like an idiot. But as you're experience grows, you may want a bike that can grow with you. For not much more dough, you could go with a Katana 750. And from someone whose first bike was a Katana 750, you will quickly get past the rookie nervousness and still have room to have fun. It weighs more (the better part of 500 lbs) so it feels solid under you. But not too heavy to handle. The ZR-7 would also be another bike that you could grow into.
As long as you remember to respect the power (and it doesn't take anything close to Busa power to throw you) and don't rush you're learning curve, you'll enjoy years of riding fun.
Can you put a 140/90/15 tube in a 130/90/15 tire?
im only asking because i need a tube for a honda rebel which is the 130/15 and i cannot find one anywhere, not even through the bike bandit OEM schematics. I could use any links,phone numbers,etc.. but i can get the latter size all day long so if it will work i can just use it.
Thanks,
Ron|||Google "130/90/15 inner tube" - there's several on line companies that list these.
The 140 and 130 tubes are not listed on any site I found as being interchangeable.|||can just be careful and try not to leave any wrinkle
rigth before you mount put just a bit of air in tube to smooth it out some wil be too big but wil work
Thanks,
Ron|||Google "130/90/15 inner tube" - there's several on line companies that list these.
The 140 and 130 tubes are not listed on any site I found as being interchangeable.|||can just be careful and try not to leave any wrinkle
rigth before you mount put just a bit of air in tube to smooth it out some wil be too big but wil work
Bandit parts?
I need a new front wheel and forks+discs+calipers for a 2005 Suzuki GFS 650 S bandit (ABS MODEL).
Suzuki are I have been told are good when it comes to parts interchangibility......anyone know what other bikes in the Suzuki range that will fit this bike......?|||Try: www.bikebandit.com
I used them a few times when I had my 02 GFS 1200S Bandit.
Great bike by the way!|||Do yourself a favor and get a copy of Motor Cyclist magazine off the newsstand and go to the back to the classifieds. You'll see many parts places you can call for parts for your bike. All of these places should be able to cross reference and find the information you seek....for free.
I always used Dennis Kirk, but there are other good ones as well.
www.denniskirk.com they should be able to help you, but be sure to check the magazine classifieds.
Suzuki are I have been told are good when it comes to parts interchangibility......anyone know what other bikes in the Suzuki range that will fit this bike......?|||Try: www.bikebandit.com
I used them a few times when I had my 02 GFS 1200S Bandit.
Great bike by the way!|||Do yourself a favor and get a copy of Motor Cyclist magazine off the newsstand and go to the back to the classifieds. You'll see many parts places you can call for parts for your bike. All of these places should be able to cross reference and find the information you seek....for free.
I always used Dennis Kirk, but there are other good ones as well.
www.denniskirk.com they should be able to help you, but be sure to check the magazine classifieds.
Thinking of buying a suzuki gsf 600 bandit the mileage is 31.000 is that mileage a bit high for that any 1 no?
much about that bike|||No, that is not high mileage. Especially given the year of the bike. It works out to less than 2500 miles per year in it's 13 year life span. That's nothing!
I don't know why but people always freak out when they see anything over 25,000 on a bike. I just don't get it. I am always more concerned with how the bike was maintained than I am with the miles on it.
You could find a bike with half that on the OD and get a bike that's been trashed internally or get a bike with twice that mileage and get a real cream puff that's been pampered.
I've put more than 60,000 on a couple of bikes before trading them in and they were in better shape than most other bikes with half that mileage on them.|||Can i just say i totally agree with you I have been riding my bandit for 13 years with 78,000 on the clock until 3 days ago when some numpty took me out completely.always started winter,sun or rain. ridden nearly every day for 13 years no probs. I love it!!
|||Mileage is just a number. 30000 gentle summer motorway miles will wear the bike less than 15000 in town, and you only need to ride a few miles with low oil to do real damage.
I'd check the actual condition of the bike - oil leaks, rattles from the engine, rust, smoky exhaust, condition of spark plugs and oil in engine etc., and use the high mileage as a bargaining tool.
High mileage bikes don't sell because there are always low mileage examples out there that are easier to shift.
I recently sold a 40,000 mile Aprilia very cheaply, and I know how good the engine was because no expense was spared keeping it mint. The buyer got a bargain.
So could you. Or you could get a dog, if you don't know what to look for.
PS Bandits cope with high mileages better than most.|||No big deal, especially for the age. If it's been well looked after it shouldn't be an issue. Bandit engines are almost indestructible, and can handle much higher mileages than that without any problem. I had 45000 on mine when some useless blind car driver wrecked it for me.|||31000 is not really a lot as long as it has been looked after and well serviced
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1997-Suzuki-Bandit鈥?/a>
this is what you could expect to pay for an n plate
check out the fazer 600 as well you get them at a reasonable price|||That is very high mileage. Someone road the hell out of it. You shouldn't pay more than $500 at the most. It will probably need to be trailered home in the next few thousand miles. Someone took VERY good care of it to get that many miles on it. 31,000?|||great bike engines are bombproof, the only thing they suffer with is the automatic cam chain adjuster not working it gets weak but you can adjust it manually|||Mileage is about right for the year. Bike's got a good rep|||what year is it??|||yes that's pretty high mileage|||What is the question?
There is some sort of gibberish that's confusing
the adults here.
I don't know why but people always freak out when they see anything over 25,000 on a bike. I just don't get it. I am always more concerned with how the bike was maintained than I am with the miles on it.
You could find a bike with half that on the OD and get a bike that's been trashed internally or get a bike with twice that mileage and get a real cream puff that's been pampered.
I've put more than 60,000 on a couple of bikes before trading them in and they were in better shape than most other bikes with half that mileage on them.|||Can i just say i totally agree with you I have been riding my bandit for 13 years with 78,000 on the clock until 3 days ago when some numpty took me out completely.always started winter,sun or rain. ridden nearly every day for 13 years no probs. I love it!!
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|||Mileage is just a number. 30000 gentle summer motorway miles will wear the bike less than 15000 in town, and you only need to ride a few miles with low oil to do real damage.
I'd check the actual condition of the bike - oil leaks, rattles from the engine, rust, smoky exhaust, condition of spark plugs and oil in engine etc., and use the high mileage as a bargaining tool.
High mileage bikes don't sell because there are always low mileage examples out there that are easier to shift.
I recently sold a 40,000 mile Aprilia very cheaply, and I know how good the engine was because no expense was spared keeping it mint. The buyer got a bargain.
So could you. Or you could get a dog, if you don't know what to look for.
PS Bandits cope with high mileages better than most.|||No big deal, especially for the age. If it's been well looked after it shouldn't be an issue. Bandit engines are almost indestructible, and can handle much higher mileages than that without any problem. I had 45000 on mine when some useless blind car driver wrecked it for me.|||31000 is not really a lot as long as it has been looked after and well serviced
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1997-Suzuki-Bandit鈥?/a>
this is what you could expect to pay for an n plate
check out the fazer 600 as well you get them at a reasonable price|||That is very high mileage. Someone road the hell out of it. You shouldn't pay more than $500 at the most. It will probably need to be trailered home in the next few thousand miles. Someone took VERY good care of it to get that many miles on it. 31,000?|||great bike engines are bombproof, the only thing they suffer with is the automatic cam chain adjuster not working it gets weak but you can adjust it manually|||Mileage is about right for the year. Bike's got a good rep|||what year is it??|||yes that's pretty high mileage|||What is the question?
There is some sort of gibberish that's confusing
the adults here.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Thinking of buying a suzuki gsf 600 bandit the mileage is 31.000 is that mileage a bit high for that any 1 no?
much about that bike|||No, that is not high mileage. Especially given the year of the bike. It works out to less than 2500 miles per year in it's 13 year life span. That's nothing!
I don't know why but people always freak out when they see anything over 25,000 on a bike. I just don't get it. I am always more concerned with how the bike was maintained than I am with the miles on it.
You could find a bike with half that on the OD and get a bike that's been trashed internally or get a bike with twice that mileage and get a real cream puff that's been pampered.
I've put more than 60,000 on a couple of bikes before trading them in and they were in better shape than most other bikes with half that mileage on them.|||Can i just say i totally agree with you I have been riding my bandit for 13 years with 78,000 on the clock until 3 days ago when some numpty took me out completely.always started winter,sun or rain. ridden nearly every day for 13 years no probs. I love it!!
|||Mileage is just a number. 30000 gentle summer motorway miles will wear the bike less than 15000 in town, and you only need to ride a few miles with low oil to do real damage.
I'd check the actual condition of the bike - oil leaks, rattles from the engine, rust, smoky exhaust, condition of spark plugs and oil in engine etc., and use the high mileage as a bargaining tool.
High mileage bikes don't sell because there are always low mileage examples out there that are easier to shift.
I recently sold a 40,000 mile Aprilia very cheaply, and I know how good the engine was because no expense was spared keeping it mint. The buyer got a bargain.
So could you. Or you could get a dog, if you don't know what to look for.
PS Bandits cope with high mileages better than most.|||No big deal, especially for the age. If it's been well looked after it shouldn't be an issue. Bandit engines are almost indestructible, and can handle much higher mileages than that without any problem. I had 45000 on mine when some useless blind car driver wrecked it for me.|||31000 is not really a lot as long as it has been looked after and well serviced
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1997-Suzuki-Bandit鈥?/a>
this is what you could expect to pay for an n plate
check out the fazer 600 as well you get them at a reasonable price|||That is very high mileage. Someone road the hell out of it. You shouldn't pay more than $500 at the most. It will probably need to be trailered home in the next few thousand miles. Someone took VERY good care of it to get that many miles on it. 31,000?|||great bike engines are bombproof, the only thing they suffer with is the automatic cam chain adjuster not working it gets weak but you can adjust it manually|||Mileage is about right for the year. Bike's got a good rep|||what year is it??|||yes that's pretty high mileage|||What is the question?
There is some sort of gibberish that's confusing
the adults here.
I don't know why but people always freak out when they see anything over 25,000 on a bike. I just don't get it. I am always more concerned with how the bike was maintained than I am with the miles on it.
You could find a bike with half that on the OD and get a bike that's been trashed internally or get a bike with twice that mileage and get a real cream puff that's been pampered.
I've put more than 60,000 on a couple of bikes before trading them in and they were in better shape than most other bikes with half that mileage on them.|||Can i just say i totally agree with you I have been riding my bandit for 13 years with 78,000 on the clock until 3 days ago when some numpty took me out completely.always started winter,sun or rain. ridden nearly every day for 13 years no probs. I love it!!
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|||Mileage is just a number. 30000 gentle summer motorway miles will wear the bike less than 15000 in town, and you only need to ride a few miles with low oil to do real damage.
I'd check the actual condition of the bike - oil leaks, rattles from the engine, rust, smoky exhaust, condition of spark plugs and oil in engine etc., and use the high mileage as a bargaining tool.
High mileage bikes don't sell because there are always low mileage examples out there that are easier to shift.
I recently sold a 40,000 mile Aprilia very cheaply, and I know how good the engine was because no expense was spared keeping it mint. The buyer got a bargain.
So could you. Or you could get a dog, if you don't know what to look for.
PS Bandits cope with high mileages better than most.|||No big deal, especially for the age. If it's been well looked after it shouldn't be an issue. Bandit engines are almost indestructible, and can handle much higher mileages than that without any problem. I had 45000 on mine when some useless blind car driver wrecked it for me.|||31000 is not really a lot as long as it has been looked after and well serviced
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1997-Suzuki-Bandit鈥?/a>
this is what you could expect to pay for an n plate
check out the fazer 600 as well you get them at a reasonable price|||That is very high mileage. Someone road the hell out of it. You shouldn't pay more than $500 at the most. It will probably need to be trailered home in the next few thousand miles. Someone took VERY good care of it to get that many miles on it. 31,000?|||great bike engines are bombproof, the only thing they suffer with is the automatic cam chain adjuster not working it gets weak but you can adjust it manually|||Mileage is about right for the year. Bike's got a good rep|||what year is it??|||yes that's pretty high mileage|||What is the question?
There is some sort of gibberish that's confusing
the adults here.
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