I want to trade my little Suzuki TS50x for a 125cc 2 stroke trail bike. I'll be using it mainly for road use, but might take it off road for a bit of fun on occasions, So it must be road legal.
Anything above 125cc is out of the question for now because I want a 125 just for mobility whilst I take the full motorbike test whenever I can.
I did consider restoring an Aprilia RS 125 but gave up on that idea. It seems silly to get a big looking bike with a little 125 engine in, as I wouldn't be racing it anyway. Not to mention the expensive oil and maintenance costs needed to keep it in good condition.
Anyway, this potential 125, it will just be used for tiggling around at the weekends really. Would like to be able to ride out with family in the summer, no chance of keeping up with 650 and 1200 bandit at the moment, and it's not so fun having to sit on the back! So as long as it will reach 70mph, it will be fine to tiggle around on =D
I'm looking for something for about 拢700 - 拢900 ish, as that's what I paid for my current bike, and expect to get it back.
I'm not fussed at all about how old it is. My main concern is that it is reliable, and also, It has got to be a 2 smoke!
Also, regarding the height.. Is it just off road trail bikes that have an unbelievably high seat?
I went to the NEC bike show and couldn't even touch one foot on the ground on most of the trail bikes..?!! And they didn't have a side stand..
Any suggestions or feedback is muchly appriciated, many thanks!|||Trail bikes are not street legal cause they have no headlight, tail light, or turn signals. If you want a motorcycle that you can ride on and off the road, then a dual-sport, also called a dual-purpose would be the bike for you. Yes, the seat heights are high on all these bikes so they can go off road. If seat height is going to be an issue, then maybe a small cruiser with a lower seat height would be a better bike for you.
Edit: Sorry, but all the bikes you mentioned, Kawasaki KX125, Suzuki RM125, Honda CR125, Husqvarna CR / WR125, and KTM 125EXC are off road bikes. They do not have the required equipment to be street legal.
Going with the Yamaha DT125R is your best bet.|||Yamaha鈥檚 DT125R is about the best road legal trailie (very popular with thieves though) 鈥?however for you price range reliability at 70 might be a concern, especially at a sustained speed 鈥?I have had two different ones nip up at or around 70 (carrying my non-aerodynamic shape). Rebuilds are, relatively, cheap. RS125s are gorgeous little bikes, especially on bends.
Saturday, December 24, 2011
How do I raise the back of a susuki bandit 400?
Hi, I recently bought a 1995 suzuki bandit 400
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
I would like to know how to raise the backside? And how would this influence the handling and the balance of the bike?
Added info I am on Bali, the roads are pretty bad. There are alot of mechanics(workshops) but all have no experience with this bike, I myself also have no experience, so i'd wrather do it myself then trust someone else to do it. Also there is no shop where I can go in an buy some parts. That all add's to my little problem, hahaha.
Hope there's someone who has usefull tips for me.
Thanks...Gilbert.|||coming from the rear shock you should see two linkages.. these look abit like bones.. they are thin in the middle with two larger circular bits on the end.. (google "shock linkages" and go to images... they look the same for nearly all bikes with monoshocks). Take these off and take them to a metal workshop and get them to make up some items that are identical other than they are about 10mm longer. 10mm doesn't sound much but you'd be amazed what a difference it makes. Good luck.
Why wont my Suzuki Bandit 1200 start?
Purchased a old 97 Bandit a year ago and it ran great, no problems what so ever. Left on a business trip came back and the battery was dead. I jumped it no problem and left again. Long story short its been sitting for a good 6-8 months. When I went to jump it again nothing. I replaced the battery, tried to turn it over and nothing. Checked to make sure the connection to the battery was good and that was fine.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
Any thoughts on how to bring back the bike from the dead? Where do I start?
Thanks in advance for any help!!!|||Check the kill switch|||Do the lights on the instrument panel light up when you turn on the ignition.(All fuses OK? This bike has an separate ignition fuse). If they do, do you hear a clicking sound when you press the ignition button. If you don't hear a click sound, Check if there is power going to the starter relay. (You need a test light to do this). If there is and relay won't click, you need a new starter relay. They do go bad. If you hear a click, but the starter won't kick, then the problem is your starter motor. Connect directly to the battery to see if it spins. Could be grounded or the carbon are worn out.
That's the end of the line on the trouble shooting route. If you still can't figure it out, take it to it to a mechanic.
A good bike for winter riding?
I'm looking to carry on riding through the winter, and possibly snowy days so I have decided to get another bike. (i dont have a car)
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
what sort of bike would be the best at tackling this? im thinking of some mega light 2 stroke 200cc? enduro/motocross style bike with road legal knobbly tyres should do it
I did want a 400/600 Suzuki bandit but I think practicality will have to come first ( I ride a 650 cruiser currently)
if you think its a stupid idea and you cant ride in snow just say so (ive been riding 2 years)|||I ride year round, but we rarely get enough snow to bother me in the London area, I use a 600cc trailie XT600, road-legal knobbly tyres work fine with recently fallen snow but when it has turned to slush I find a more road-biased tyre better. I think I would look at a 4-stroke simply for the spread of torque rather than a peaky 2-stroke and a pair of bar muffs is essential to keep your hands warm and dry, good boots are a must.|||i don't think wanting to ride year round is stupid - but then i live in southern california where you can do that without freezing your @ss off
not going to try to pick a bike for you but knobby tires sounds like a good idea. don't know how useful they will be if you find ice
the important part is finding clothing light enough not to restrict your movement but still keep you warm, and head gear to keep your head warm
good luck, and in snowy or icy conditions slow down like you would if you were riding in the rain|||Something light and easy to handle.
Something that will take tires with deep tread.
Something low speed, high torque.
And, it's not really a good idea.
I rode the HD in the pic the last 3 winters. One a record snowfall.
You should see the knee shaped dent in the other side of the tank - happened on a nice February morning.|||I would simply continue riding the cruiser. Slow down a little on the slick stuff, maybe ride with your feet out as outriggers over ice.|||Get a car instead.
Motorcycles suck in the snow. Only a couple of inches of snow on the roads can cause some real problems. Slush can be even worse.
Ice can also be a real problem. Hit a small patch of ice in a corner and you are going down. Think about how bad that cold pavement could feel at 60 MPH.
Ice can also be a big problem at intersections. Spinning tires polish the ice. Also, with modern cars the anti-lock brakes polish the ice where you approach an intersection. This is especially a problem on side streets.
When the outside ambient air temperature is 10F and you are traveling at 60 MPH, the wind chill is -19F. If the temperature is 5F and you are going 60 MPH the wind chill is -26F. BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Hypothermia is a real possibility. So is frostbite.
Most northern states use lots of salt on the roads to keep them clear in the winter. This will rot your bike, but this is a minor issue. The big problem comes when the salt starts melting the ice and snow. This will be sucked up into the air by the other vehicles. This salt spray will quickly cover your face shield. You would need to pull over and clear this every few miles. What a pain.|||Use the money for the bike and buy a car, Much better in bad weather, remember that you're not the only 1 on the road and cars don't brake as well in bad weather.
Motorcycle leaking brownish stuff that smells like gas?
2000 Suzuki Bandit is dripping brownish stuff (oil I assume) that smells like gas after I stop riding. It was dripping off of the engine guard and I couldn't tell where it was coming from. What is wrong with my bike? Approx how much will it cost to get it fixed? Is it ok if I wait until Saturday to take it to the shop?|||When I've had gasoline dripping out of my motorcycles in the past, it's come from these locations:
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
a) rust hole in the gas tank!
b) the carburetor
c) the petc-ck|||Sounds like a rocker gasket is blown. Should only be a few hundred bucks to fix if that is it. If it is brownish it is most likely oil that has been tainted with gas or water. Is it a little foamy? Also some detergents added by certain companies in their oil can cause wierd stuff to happen. Read your owners manual and find out what they reccomend to use. You can;t go wring following thier reccomendations especially when there may be warranty issues. They do tests if suspected and a large amount of money is on the line.|||I wouldn't ride it until I found out where its coming from - and what it is.
It sounds as though it may be oil and gas - you should be able to detect oil by feel and gas by smell.
Losing either can be dangerous - falling off on oil or catching fire from gas.
You can probably tell where its coming from by cleaning everything above it - and then running the motor and looking for more.
You say its dripping off the "engine guard" - which isn't a very clear term.
Most bikes have a couple of rubber hoses to direct overflowing liquids to the ground behind the motor. It maybe coming from one of these. Some come from the airbox - and you could be getting oil gas and water from there.
You didn't say how far you'd ridden or in what weather - either or both of which may be factors.|||Either fluid (oil or gas) could make road conditions hazardous (catching fire from gas or bust'n your butt from oil). Take it to a shop to see if they can give you any idea where the leak is coming from and an estame on the repairs.|||All engines will have some blow-by. This is vented from the egine via a hose from the valve cover gasket to the airbox. Sometimes enough collects in the airbox to leak out. If you have the time(not much for you) check the filter to see if it's saturated with oil. This also gets worse when your bike is running hotter. It's not that big a deal if this is your problem.|||See if you can easily remove the cover. Wait till the engine is cool, then take it off.
After it's removed, just get down on the ground and look up under the engine. See if there's any place that has alot of road grime and 'soot' stuck to it. Touch that spot with your finger. Sniff. Does it smell like the same thing?
Keep doing this with any spot on the engine that looks 'dirty'.
If you can't find anything on the engine, look at the underside of the fuel tank, look at the bottom of the exhaust pipes, look at the bottom of the airbox (above the back wheel, behind the engine, under the seat).
If it's coming from the bottom of the airbox, then remove the seat and airbox lid and check the filter and the inside of the box. If they really stink like gas, then it's a problem for the shop. Also, the crankcase vent tube (engines breathe) goes from the cases and sometimes vents into the airbox - when it's really hot, the engine can spit oil up into the airbox.
Also check the drive chain and sprockets - touch the grease on the chain and sniff. Similar? You are waxing or oiling the chain regularly, right?
Once you determine where the drip is originating - update the question and we'll help you figure out what needs to be done.
In any case, because you're riding in extreme conditions, be sure you're using the proper engine oil and that it's changed really frequently, and that you clean and oil the air filter, and oil (or wax) the chain frequently.
First Bike... Sort of?
Hey I am a 19 year old guy lookin for a first motorcycle. I may have finally convinced my dad to let me get one. I know a decent ammount about bikes but like gettin other opinions. I am also on a pretty tight budget since I am in college. I honestly don't care what kind of bike I get. I definatley want it used, because it needs to be cheap. I am considering sport bikes, cruisers, or naked bikes (spot touring). I am 6' 3" and right around 200 lbs. I have thought hard about a sportster 883, but have been told I would dwarf the bike, and that it has no get up. I want something that will accelerate pretty quick, with a decent top speed. I am not going to be going around poppin wheelies and trying to kill myself like most guys my age, but it is nice to crack the throttle every once and a while. I have also looked at gsxr 750 bandit 1200's sportster 1200s. I really don't care... I just need it cheap, and with decent get-up-and-go. also where should i look, I have been hittin up craigslist?|||Off experience is great, trust me as a 10 years + rider, it will come in handy. Now I gotta break the bad news to you, starting off with something in that list you have there is a good way to move on to the after life. Though I'd never suggest that frickin' Rebel to anyone, especially a 200 pound dude that needs some power to get out of those inevitable lousy situations that will happen, you're best bet is something in the 600's while you're in college. You can always get that dream bike after you get that dream job, but first you gotta gain the road skills to handle it well. Like I said, off road experience is a great start but how many times in those woods or fields were you moving along with say a 40-ton semi heading at you, or perhaps some bozo with one hand on the phone and the other flying around the air? I won't start preaching the I had this and that happen crap, scare you off the road is all that would do; ain't gonna preach helmets and MSF courses cause I'm sure you know where your are on that, but ask yourself where you want to be in 10 years .. moving down the road on your dream bike of than, or perhaps not moving so much no more.
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
Take your pick....
Ride Hard, Die Free
or
Live to Ride, Ride to Live!
Later dude, see ya' on the road some day!|||I would say if you get a Harley go 1200, if you like the crotch rocket get at least a 900. Dont go smaller just because it's your first bike or you WILL regret it later. Especially if your 6'3"|||I love my 2002 shadow ace 750cc, bought it last year for 3300. great for around town or down the highway. Harleys are great, but overpriced, add some loud pipes to a shadow and you can get the sound w/o spending the bucks. a nurse that i work with that owns a 12000 dollar harley says it best, it isnt what you ride it is that you ride.|||"""" SPEED IS POINTLESS WITHOUT CONTROL """"|||Take a look at a 1200 sporty but there are a lot of good used bikes around at least the sporty will hold its value for a trade in or upgrade not always the case with a lot of them
What difference will a 33bhp restriction have on my bandit 1200 (1999)?
Hi there,
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
I am currently 19 years old and have bought a Bandit 1200 (1999) and have been riding it for 9 months. With British Law however as I am under 21 I must have a restrictor (33bhp) fitted for two years after having completed my license.
I am interested to know what difference removing this restrictor will have.. whether the peak power and torque will shift on the power band in relation to revs. How throttle response will change and how cornering should be dealt with etc etc, if you have experience on another bike could you tell me please? I dont plan on removing the restrictor for a year until my license allows me to!
Please note that I chose the bandit as it was classed as a sports-tourer with comparatively low insurance and I wanted to go around europe on it, therefore the cruising at low revs with a reliable engine was very attractive and I must say, it is a splendid bike!|||you will only get 1/3 of the power of the bike
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